A Short Cycling Trip Around Lake Toya, Hokkaido
The other day, I attended the Hokkaido Tourism Information Exchange Meeting held in Hamamatsucho, Tokyo. The theme was recommended highlights for spring to early summer and the night-time economy—how to enjoy the evening hours. This destination is currently bustling with snow sports visitors, but once the snow melts, it also offers many excellent locations for cycling.
That said, it’s surprisingly hard to find detailed cycling information for such a vast region as Hokkaido.
This time, we’re featuring a cycling report from Hokokara, an experienced rider who has completed a bicycle trip around Japan and climbed many of the country’s notable peaks. The report covers a ride around Lake Toya in Hokkaido. Because of the island’s scale, it’s not uncommon to go long stretches without passing through towns while cycling. Advance research on food stops and restroom locations is essential. Here’s an early-spring 36 km Hokkaido ride from a cyclist who is well used to traveling solo by bike.
Located in Shikotsu-Toya National Park, Lake Toya is a caldera lake in Hokkaido, and its roughly 36 km perimeter loop is a favorite among cyclists.
Starting from JR Toya Station, riders can follow the Toya–Abuta Prefectural Road along the lakeshore, enjoying routes that bring the water close at hand, with peaceful waterfront scenery and wide rural landscapes along the way. There are also hot spring districts and local restaurants en route, making it easy to plan relaxing breaks and meals as you ride.
Above all, the view of Mount Yotei rising beyond the lake is the signature sight of this cycling loop. Here, you can fully savor both the scenery and the local flavors on a complete ride around Lake Toya.
Text: Hokokara
Starting from JR Toya Station
The starting point is JR Toya Station. It can be reached in just under two hours by limited express train from both Hakodate Station and Sapporo Station. Its location between central and southern Hokkaido also makes it a convenient base for sightseeing.
From JR Toya Station to the lakeshore of Lake Toya is about a 4 km uphill climb. Treat it as a gentle warm-up and take your time riding up National Route 230. When you reach the blue road sign at the top, you’ll arrive at the lakefront. This time, we ride clockwise, so continue on Route 230 from there.
Before long, the view opens up and the full panorama of Lake Toya spreads out before you. The ridgeline of Nakajima appears clearly set against the calm water, with layers of mountains rising behind it. The blue of the sky and the white of the clouds reflect on the lake’s surface, creating a tranquil scene unique to this setting. From here on, the route continues clockwise along the shore, with the scenery changing moment by moment as you ride.
Hokkaido Prefectural Road 578 Toya-Abuta Line runs right along the shore of Lake Toya, and its biggest appeal is how close you stay to the water, riding with the lake constantly at your side. With few visual obstructions, Nakajima and the surrounding mountains come into view from changing angles, letting you enjoy the slow, evolving scenery that only cycling can offer.
It’s a refreshing stretch lined with lakeside vegetation and calm water, but as it also functions as a local access road, a steady number of cars do pass through. Extra caution is needed while riding, especially on sections where the road closely hugs the shoreline and lane width can be limited. Enjoy the views—but keep safety first.
Take a break at Toya Mizu no Eki.
A large building called Toya Mizu no Eki soon comes into view. Inside, you’ll find a tourist information center as well as a market area selling locally grown vegetables and a variety of regional processed foods.
You can also enjoy a meal at the on-site restaurant, Toya Mizu no Eki Shokudo TSUDOU, but it opens from 11:00 a.m. Since today’s ride started early in the morning and it’s only just past 9:00, we’ll stop here just long enough to hydrate before getting back on the road.
Toya Mizu no Eki
https://www.touyanet.com/free/mizunoeki
Leaving Toya Mizu no Eki and continuing along the shore of Lake Toya, you soon enter the Takarada district. Wide, open rice fields spread out before you. Because lakeside scenery is often associated with forests and waterfront views, seeing rows of rice plants growing right near the water feels pleasantly unexpected.
The Takarada area on the northern side of the lake is known as the home of “Takarada rice,” sometimes referred to as a phantom or rare local brand. The Toya Mizu no Eki you stopped at earlier is also one of the few places where this rice is sold directly.
Savor Ezo Deer Ramen in Sobetsu
You’ve now entered Sobetsu. With it getting close to lunchtime, it’s the perfect moment to stop and grab something to eat.
For lunch, we stopped at the restaurant Ajidokoro Tabi to Hito, located inside the day-use hot spring facility Kimundo no Ie, and ordered a bowl of Ezo deer ramen. When you think of Hokkaido, Ezo deer comes to mind. This unique ramen features a broth made from Ezo deer bones and is topped with house-made roast from a premium cut—deer loin—making it a truly all-deer specialty bowl.
Game meat like venison often has a distinctive wild aroma, but this ramen was so clean-tasting that you wouldn’t guess it was deer-based unless told. The roasted venison in particular was the most tender and delicious I’ve ever had. Rather than a novelty item, it’s a genuinely outstanding bowl of ramen that comes highly recommended.
Admiring “Ezo Fuji,” Mount Yotei
After lunch, we get back on the pedals. The Lake Toya cycling loop is already about three-quarters complete. With just a short distance left to finish the circuit, we temporarily leave the lakeshore and climb up to higher ground.
At the top of the climb, you arrive at Sobetsu Park.
From the elevated area within Sobetsu Park, you can enjoy a commanding view of Mount Yotei rising proudly beyond Lake Toya. The sight of Mt. Yotei from this park is truly one of the highlights of the full lakeside circuit.
Beautiful standalone peaks across Japan are often nicknamed “___ Fuji,” and this mountain has long been affectionately known as “Ezo Fuji,” recognized as one of Hokkaido’s most iconic mountains. Along the Lake Toya loop route, there are only a few spots where you can face Mt. Yotei head-on—making Sobetsu Park an exceptional viewpoint.
Soak your feet at the footbath, Toron no Yu.
Snack time at the sweets shop Okadaya.
After enjoying the footbath, it’s time for a sweet break at Okadaya. The specialty here is white oshiruko (sweet red bean soup). It’s available both hot and cold, and today we go with the chilled version. Topped with a floating ohagi-style ice cream, this “Toya Lake Shiruko” has a uniquely eye-catching look that perfectly matches the character of the area—an ideal dessert to wrap up the Lake Toya cycling loop.
The sweetness of the bean paste is gentle rather than heavy, and the cold oshiruko soaks into a heat-warmed body after the ride. Light, refreshing, and satisfying—just the perfect finish.
The roughly 36 km loop around Lake Toya offers a rich mix of experiences—from peaceful lakeside farmland and the lively atmosphere of hot spring towns to encounters with local food culture along the way. Above all, the beautifully shaped silhouette of Mount Yotei reflected across the water stands out as the highlight of the course. Riding with this “Ezo Fuji” as your backdrop makes the memories of the trip even more vivid.
Why not explore Lake Toya yourself by bike, where nature and daily life exist in perfect harmony?
Profile
Hokokara
Originally from Miyazaki Prefecture, Hokokara is a blogger who travels across Japan with a focus on mountains and shrines. In the past, he completed a cycling journey around the entire country. Currently, through his blog Hinomoto Angya, he shares articles on mountaineering, history, and landscapes. In the future, they he plans to expand his reporting internationally, showcasing the charms of both Japan and the world.
Blog: https://fawtblog.com/