A Bus-Assisted Day Ride to a Surfing Mecca

Registration has opened once again for one of the world’s greatest ride events— the Honolulu Century Ride, which takes cyclists through the island paradise of Hawaii.
The Honolulu Century Ride (HCR), which attracts many repeat participants from Japan, will celebrate its 43rd edition this year. Daisaku Kawase, Communication Director of Global Ride, is now a regular rider and will be taking part for the third time. How does he enjoy Hawaii before and after the event?

The answer lies on the North Shore.

Within easy reach for a day trip, this popular area offers a laid-back local atmosphere quite different from Honolulu. In this two-part series, we follow a seasoned HCR rider on a cycling trip to the North Shore.

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Text & Photos by Daisaku Kawase

Waikiki is an incredibly well-designed town for visitors. You could even call it the ultimate finished form of a tropical resort. Precisely because of that, however, everything feels polished and sophisticated—there isn’t much of that rough-edged, unmistakably “local” Hawaii vibe.

But there are always people who want to experience something a little more local, right?

If that sounds like you, then head to the North Shore.

You might be thinking, “Isn’t it difficult to get there?” Renting a car sounds like a hassle, and taking a taxi seems expensive—so it’s easy to hesitate. But here’s some good news: you can actually reach the North Shore quite easily by bus with your bike.
From Waikiki, it’s about a two-hour ride on TheBus. You’ll need to get a HOLO Card, but that’s easy—you can pick one up at the many ABC Stores scattered throughout Waikiki. A day pass costs just $7.50.
And even better, TheBus allows you to bring your bicycle along—no need to pack or disassemble it.

The North Shore is famous as a mecca of surfing, and it offers a kind of simple, unpolished charm you won’t find in Honolulu.

So with that in mind, I decided to take my Brompton along and head up to the North Shore.

I set off at 8 a.m. Buses seem to run roughly once an hour. When I boarded, there were only a few passengers, and my Brompton slipped neatly into the space between the seats.
As I drifted in and out of sleep, the bus stopped along the way and suddenly filled up—high school students, workers, people heading about their daily routines. The whole bus took on a sense of everyday life. Along the route we passed a large factory, and then the vast Dole Food Company banana plantations. One after another, scenes of an unvarnished Hawaii—the kind you never see in Waikiki—came into view.
And that’s exactly what makes travel so fascinating.

About two hours after leaving Honolulu, the bus arrived in Haleiwa. It looked like there were more stops further along the route, but I decided to hop off here for the moment.

It was only a little past 10 a.m., and most of the shops were still closed. But one corner of town was sending out an incredibly tempting aroma. Thick smoke was billowing up as something roasted over the fire. When I got closer, I saw that it was chicken—whole birds skewered on long metal rods, slowly rotating, probably powered by an electric motor. It reminded me of those table soccer games you often see in Europe, where turning the rods spins the players around to kick the ball.
So this was Huli Huli Chicken!
Around the grill, wild chickens wandered about, clucking away. Seeing them strut around the roasting chickens made for quite a primal scene—you might be next, I couldn’t help thinking.
It looked absolutely delicious, but I was in the mood for a sandwich and coffee, so I passed it by. Looking back now, I slightly regret that decision—I probably should have eaten it, even if it meant bursting at the seams. It just looked that good.

Haleiwa is a small town stretching along a single main road. By bike, you can circle the whole place in less than five minutes. After a bit of window shopping while waiting for 11 a.m., I headed to the bakery I had in mind: Waialua Bakery & Juice Bar. The charming building, full of handmade character, is easy to spot.
To order a sandwich, you first choose the filling and then the type of bread. I went with chicken and avocado on wheat bread, along with a cold brew coffee with milk. Sitting down on the terrace out front, I dug in right away. The sandwich was packed with tomatoes, lettuce, and plenty of other vegetables—hearty and satisfying. And the cold brew coffee was incredibly good. The aroma was bold, yet the flavor had real depth. Honestly, the coffee alone made the two-hour bus ride worthwhile.
As I relaxed outside the shop, people who looked like local surfers kept dropping by one after another. No surprise—this is a surfing mecca. Watching them, I found myself thinking about a completely different kind of life: working here, surfing every day, and growing old in a place like this. It felt like catching a glimpse of another worldline, a life far removed from my own.

There was another shop in Haleiwa that had caught my eye: NUMBER 808, a small boutique selling clothing and assorted goods.
Inside, you’ll find the shop’s original T-shirts alongside a tasteful selection of both new and vintage pieces chosen by the owner. There were also band T-shirts and cassette tapes from groups like The Smiths and The Jesus and Mary Chain. In a town where surf culture dominates, the shop stands out with its slightly different vibe.
I was curious about the name “808,” so I asked the owner, a friendly woman behind the counter. She told me it’s the area code for Hawaii.
As a souvenir, I ended up buying a couple of the shop’s original T-shirts. The owner was so easygoing that we wound up chatting for quite a while.

Since I’d come all the way to the North Shore, I thought I should see the ocean too. When I opened Google Maps, I found Laniakea Beach, a spot where sea turtles are often seen basking on the sand. It’s about 4 km from Haleiwa, which means it’s just a quick ride by bike. That kind of easy mobility is one of the best things about cycling.

After about five minutes of riding, the road reached the coastline. Surf shops lined the street, and surfers were everywhere. I imagine they come here from all over the world.

At Laniakea Beach, perhaps because it was the weekend, quite a crowd had gathered. I’d read that this time of year makes it easier to spot sea turtles, so I walked along the beach for a while—but unfortunately didn’t see any.

There was a sign on the beach reading “Sensitive Habitat,” warning visitors not to approach within three meters. In Japan, a place like this would almost certainly be completely off-limits. It felt like a small glimpse of Hawaii’s relaxed way of living alongside nature.

I had plans to meet a friend in Waikiki at 2 p.m., so my North Shore adventure had to end here. Taking the bus would have cut things a little too close, so I called an Uber for the ride back.

Even a short half-day trip like this lets you encounter a completely different side of Hawaii from what you experience in Waikiki. And with a bicycle, your range of exploration expands, making the adventure even more enjoyable.

It’s not just the North Shore—there are many other bus routes from Honolulu that allow you to bring a bike on board. Why not give a short bike-and-bus trip a try yourself?

Profile

Daisaku Kawase
He is a Free Producer, the Representative of Days Co., Ltd, Global Ride Communication Director.
Born in Aichi Prefecture. With 16 years of road cycling experience, he loves scenic rides. He squeezes in rides between work and travels all over Japan with his bike. His beloved bike is a Trek. After working as a producer on programs like “Ariyoshi no Okane Hakken Totsugeki! Kaneo-kun,” “Oyasumi Japan Nemuiine,” and “Asaichi” at NHK, he became independent in 2022. In addition to producing programs, he also handles project production for government and corporate clients.