Pedaling Through Paradise: 100 km of Cycling in Cairns, Queensland (Part 3)

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On September 14, 2025, the Port Douglas Gran Fondo came to a successful close. The course was filled with spots that truly captured the essence of Australia—from the Pacific coastal highway surrounded by diverse vegetation to roads lined with towering ant hills and peaceful farmland offering glimpses of local life. Unfortunately, the cycling event ended this year, but the running event is set to return next year, bigger and better.
The day after the event, our editorial team—who had completed the 100 km ride—set out on another cycling trip around Port Douglas together with Ayano and Youhei, an architect couple from Brisbane.

In this final installment, Ayano shares her sightseeing cycling trip around Port Douglas—from casual city rides to breathtaking “This is Australia!” landscapes, it was a post-ride adventure full of highlights.

Text_Mayumi Kamura / Global Ride

1. Exploring Port Douglas by Bicycle

Stretching about six kilometers north to south along Four Mile Beach, the town of Port Douglas is best explored by bicycle. Even in early summer, daytime temperatures can get quite high, and many shops close early, so it’s best to start your sightseeing in the morning. Begin your day by heading to the beach before sunrise.

People strolling along the endless stretch of beach. When the tide goes out, the sand hardens, making it possible to ride a bike along the shore.

After watching the sunrise, we wandered through town in search of a café. Most cafés in Australia open around 6 a.m., so you’ll often see cyclists finishing their early-morning rides or locals walking their dogs. Each café has its own unique character and style—coffee lovers will be in heaven here. A friend from Port Douglas recommended Origin Espresso, a small, locally run espresso bar with its own roastery.

Bustling even in the early morning. I spotted a poster for espresso pouches for the first time in Australia—they look perfect for a bike ride.

For a light meal, try Australia’s soul food — the meat pie. Mocka’s Pies, founded in Port Douglas in 1969, is a long-established pie shop that has won numerous awards at national pie competitions.

We ordered the unique crocodile pie (highly recommended!) and a seafood pie. They also have kangaroo pies on the menu.

If you want to experience the local culture of Port Douglas, head to The Book Lounge Port Douglas. The maze-like interior is filled with cozy corners where you can sit and read. The owner is incredibly charming, and it’s easy to see why this lovely bookstore is so well-loved by locals.

There was even a first edition of *Snugglepot and Cuddlepie*, a very famous Australian children’s book.

At the southern end of town, there’s the Wildlife Habitat, where you can get up close and interact with koalas and kangaroos.

Walking along the boardwalk on Port Douglas Road is such a pleasant experience. The palm fronds here are impressively large, some nearly touching the ground!

Today, Port Douglas is known for its resort hotels, but it was once a bustling town during the gold rush. At one point, it was even a more important port than Cairns. Later, the town shifted to sugarcane cultivation, serving as a port for shipping raw sugar processed in the neighboring town of Mossman. However, a devastating cyclone in 1911 caused massive destruction, and it wasn’t until the 1980s that Port Douglas transformed into the resort town we know today. Remnants of this rich history can still be found scattered throughout the town.

When you see signs like these, they mark historical sites—perfect for exploring by bike. You might come across a wooden church with beautiful ocean views, for example.

The Central Hotel is one such example. In Australian towns, there’s always a pub hotel—some also function as accommodations—and pub meals are an important part of the local culture.

If you’re in Far North Queensland, be sure to try **Great Northern Lager**, a local favorite. In summer, its crisp, refreshing taste goes down like water.

For a perfect end to the day, a leisurely ride along the seaside boardwalk is highly recommended.

A town where you can enjoy the sea from various angles. There are also well-maintained walking trails, including a viewpoint overlooking Four Mile Beach.

2. If you want to go a little further, head to Mossman Gorge.

The neighboring town of Mossman is about an hour’s ride from Port Douglas by bike. I tried cycling there myself, but since you have no choice but to take the Captain Cook Highway, I wouldn’t really recommend it… From Mossman town to Mossman Gorge, there are well-maintained walking trails, so it’s probably better to drive to Mossman first and then switch to a bike from there.

The road to Mossman Gorge winds through sugarcane fields.

Mossman Gorge is the southernmost point where you can experience Australia’s World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest. A cultural center has been established, and walking trails are well-maintained, making it accessible for everyone. Guided tours led by the local Indigenous community are also available.

The clear waters of the Mossman River, where you can also see people swimming

Port Douglas and Mossman were once closely connected through the sugarcane industry. At one point, an industrial railway linking the two towns was even used as a tourist railway, but it was discontinued in 2021. Then, in 2023, Mossman’s long-standing sugar mill closed, marking a major turning point for the town. According to local media, there is growing public demand to convert the former railway line into a trail. If realized, this could become a fantastic cycling route, making it a development to watch closely.

The closed sugar mill, which used to offer tours, sits along the railway that once ran all the way to Port Douglas. The old tourist train carriages are now being used as a café in Port Douglas.

3. Don’t miss the Daintree National Park.

If you’re in Port Douglas, you can’t miss seeing the world’s oldest tropical rainforest. We were told that the further north you go in the Daintree, the more spectacular it becomes, so we headed to Cape Tribulation, the northernmost point accessible by a regular car (beyond that, only 4WD is allowed). To get from Port Douglas to the Daintree, you need to take a car ferry across the river. From there, about 10 km of steep mountain roads follow, but the roughly 25 km stretch from the Daintree Discovery Centre to Cape Tribulation is mostly flat, offering a wonderful ride.

**This map**, available at the Port Douglas Visitor Information’s Daintree Shop, comes highly recommended.

There are walking tracks throughout the area, but we chose the Dubuji Boardwalk, a loop that takes about an hour to complete. It allows you to experience the rainforest, mangroves, and beach all in one walk.

The stunning mangroves and Australian fan palms (also known as Queensland fan palms).

Watch out on beaches where there are no people—but crocodiles are present.

For a break, head to the Daintree Ice Cream Company. A friend recommended it as the place to try the best tropical ice cream. Their unique flavors, made from homegrown fruits, are especially appealing.

The signature cup, which lets you enjoy all four flavors—coconut, mango, black sapote, and wattleseed—is highly recommended. They also sell teas grown in the Daintree.

4. A combination of car and bike works perfectly.

Port Douglas, in the Cairns region, serves as a gateway to World Heritage sites. To make the most of its attractions, a combination of car and bike is ideal. Bicycles can be rented relatively affordably in Cairns, Palm Cove, and Port Douglas. There are plenty of e-bikes available, and helmets are provided, so why not extend your journey a little and choose a cycling adventure?

Text_Ayano Omura

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After enjoying cycling and sightseeing in Cairns, you can take a rental car or hotel shuttle to Cairns International Airport. Direct flights make the return journey smooth and stress-free. Japanese-speaking staff are available at the check-in counters and on board, giving you peace of mind even from abroad. In about seven hours, with just a one-hour time difference, you’ll enjoy a comfortable flight back to Japan.

By the way… on the flight from Cairns to Japan, you might catch a glimpse of the Great Barrier Reef from the window, weather permitting. Seeing the coral reef from above for the first time in my life was exhilarating and kept my spirits high all the way through the flight. The expansive, crystal-clear waters of the Southern Hemisphere add yet another unforgettable memory to your journey.

After arrival, limousine buses depart from in front of Narita Airport Terminal 3 for central Tokyo, and a shuttle bus runs to Terminal 2, where the train station is located—making it easy to transport your luggage. Please note that the last limousine bus departs early, so be sure to check the schedule in advance.

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Ayano Toki
Co-director of the Brisbane-based architectural firm Parafeeld. After moving to Australia, she began riding touring bikes. She is interested in exploring the relationship between cities and nature, as well as their history, through cycling, and occasionally goes on creek rides, rail trail rides, and bikepacking trips.