Breezing Through Setouchi in Ehime ＃04
Brought to you by Jeremy, an immigrant from the U.S.A. To the westernmost tip of Ehime!
A straight coastal and fish ride along the Setokaze Kaido

This route, the Iyonada-Sadamisaki Seto Seaside Cycling Course, traverses a mountainous peninsula heading towards the most western point of Ehime and may be a bit of a challenge for some, but if you are a true masochist like me, why not try it during the summertime! Now, I’m of course not trying to discourage anyone from experiencing the excursion (it was a fun ride) but I must say that the time around July and August should probably be reserved for diehard cyclists of which I am no longer sure I’m a part of. In the end though, I survived riding over 80 kilometers in the heat of August. And I’d do it again,

Table of Contents

　1. The Starting Point, Shiosai Park
　2. Futami Roadside Station
　3. Okomomiyaki Lunch and Interesting Sidewalks
　4. The Famous Shimonada Station and Other Interesting Sites
　5. The Red Bridge where I Stopped biking for the First Day
　6. One of the most memorable stays at Ebisuya Ryokan
　7. The Next Day and the Real Challenge
　8. Warning：Steep Inclines and Many Long and Dark Tunnels
　9. Congratulate Yourself, It’s all downhill from there!

1. The Starting Point, Shiosai Park

The starting point to this particular bike route starts a little bit south of Ehime’s capital city of Matsuyama, in an easy to locate park called Shiosai.

This is a really useful map I found along the way with a lot of landmarks to let you know where you’re at and what is coming up ahead, especially when it comes to elevation gain.

I very unwittingly split this ride between the quite leisurely first thirty kilometers and the very challenging 50 kilometers that remained the next day. I did this by going as far as I could with what time I had on the first day (I’m always late) and locking up my bike to return to after a nice stay at a traditional Japanese hotel near the end of the route.

2. Futami Roadside Station

The only real rest stop in this first 30 kilometers is the Futami Roadside Station which is conveniently located not far from the one big hill you’ll have to bike over at the outset of the ride. It’s a good place to cool down in an air-conditioned sitting area attached to the side of a little farmers’ market type shop. If you’re looking for a lunch spot this also seems to be a good spot because of a kind of outdoor food court with a number of options, from tempura to cheese burgers. There’s also a restaurant on the second floor of the main building above the market.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/81S4vw6wpjFv4PL26?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

3. Okomomiyaki Lunch and Interesting Sidewalks

Me and the fam’s lunch, however, was at a local okonomiyaki place down the road that we scouted out beforehand. It’s a unique style of noodle-based okonomiyaki from Matsuyama called Mistuhama-Yaki and the portions are unapologetically huge from an old authentic recipe.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/UvnUYj1ufmtwPHjU8?g_st=il

Another notable part of this enjoyable first half is the sidewalks. Now, I’m not usually a sidewalk kind of guy as they are notoriously unpredictable in Japan, stopping and starting as they please and often following an entirely different path then the roads they are allegedly siding. But these sidewalks were often wide and welcoming and the cars do drive fast on this route.

This was a portion of sidewalk where every couple of meters or so you passed a tile depicting one of an array of local sea life. You can even brush up on your vocabulary in hiragana if you have the time.

4. The Famous Shimonada Station and Other Interesting Sites

Quick stop at a super touristy spot where people were lining up to get their pictures taken sitting on the benches at this quaint little ocean side train station. Crowed, but no one was waiting for a train as they were all done for the day.

Here’s a strange little gem I’m sure I would have completely missed if I was out on the road at this point describing some kind of connection between World War Two fighter pilots and extraterrestrial life. I want to believe.

Not the first time I’ve spotted a little Lady Liberty here in Japan and probably won’t be the last. I’m beginning to think there are more here than in the States.

5. The Red Bridge where I Stopped biking for the First Day

The end of my first 30 kilometers was at the small port town of Nagahama. I parked my bike near this iconic red drawbridge before heading by car for dinner and a night’s stay at Ebisuya Ryokan, the above-mentioned Japanese-style inn.

6. One of the most memorable stays at Ebisuya Ryokan

When we arrived, we were greeted by a very friendly staff that was cordial and accommodating despite being a good hour later then we were asked to arrive.

They showed us to our room and then a large family-style bathing area to freshen up before a very delicious Japanese seafood-based dinner included with the stay. A hardy breakfast is also included.

The main dish was a local specialty called “Katsu-shabu,” made with fresh local fish, so fresh it can be eaten raw. You can enjoy it as sashimi or cook it shabu-shabu style in a hot pot. With many different sauces and seasonings already laid out on the table for you, the very large portions of a variety of seafood never got boring.

7. The Next Day and the Real Challenge

The next day we drove back to where my bike was parked and I started off on one of the most challenging, not to mention the hottest bike ride I have ever experienced.

From time to time I come across a mini-torii gate like the ones you will almost always pass under when visiting a Shinto shrine. I thought this was a pretty interesting spot for one. It looks like there might be a little shrine on the other side too.

8. Warning：Steep Inclines and Many Long and Dark Tunnels

Totoro and his neighbor, Satsuki egg me on as I begin the main ascent into the mountains. From here my story will mostly be about caution. It is not an easy trek and not the safest road but if you’re up for it you will not regret it.

From the port of Nagahama where I started out today until the first of two roadside stations you gain most of the elevation for the ride in a little less than one third of its length. That makes this by far the hardest 25 kilometers or so of the route and there are no buildings to take sanctuary from the heat. I’m sure you’ll be caring some water but one saving grace is that there are multiple spots to pull over and grab something cold from a vending machine and sit a minute in the shade. I had to use two of these spots for a water break before arriving at some sweet sweet air conditioning.

You will probably find that the sketchiest part about this route is the numerous amounts of shoulder-less tunnels you will have to pass through. Add that to the fact that this road is used by A LOT of tractor trailer trucks and you will likely have a few uncomfortable moments traveling up and through these hills, especially if have the privilege of being passed by one of these big trucks while in a dark tunnel like I did.
I definitely recommend lights for this part of the route even in the daytime. One good thing I can say about the tunnels a though is that they are quite refreshingly cool compared to the rest of the road.

9. Congratulate Yourself, It’s all downhill from there!

If you’ve made it to the Ikata Kirara-kan Roadside Station, congratulate yourself and take a well-earned break indoors resting assured that the worst is over and you can definitely make it the rest of the way. I assume it was mostly because of the heat, but I was becoming a little doubtful myself be for I arrived here.

There’s a little shop it’s a large fish tank you can feed some real fish at on the first floor, a virtually aquarium on the second, and a lounge up on the third floor. All around a real oasis in the summertime.

The second roadside station isn’t much further on after that. Here there a couple lunch spots if you haven’t eaten yet and a retail store selling clothing, art and souvenirs. Not convenient store but there were some vending machines. 

Only one more major ascent after this and it’s pretty much all downhill from there!

There must be a hundred of these roadside shrines along this route. This one was my favorite for obvious reasons. Unfortunately, this is the only beer featured on this particular ride. I hope to hit up some more beer spots in the rides to come though.

And finally, I arrive at Misaki Port, the official end point to this challenging ride down the Sadamisaki Peninsula. If you haven’t had enough yet (I had certainly had enough) there’s another hilly 15 kilometers to the most western point of Ehime, and if you still haven’t had enough, you can even hike out to the lighthouse when you get there which I was told takes another half an hour or so. Good luck!

🚲The Course in This Article

🚲Breezing Through Setouchi in Ehime Series
＃01 The sea breeze, mountains and more! 11 bike routes you can fully enjoy through the nature of Ehime.
＃02 Getting Your Feet Wet in Ehime with the Shimanami Kaido
＃03 Castles and Onsens and craft beer, Oh my! Bicycle ride through Ehime culture that continues from Shimanami Kaido
＃04 To the westernmost tip of Ehime! A straight coastal and fish ride along the Setokaze Kaido
＃05 Riverside Ride in Greenery Countryside

Text_ Jeremy Kircher
He hails from Pennsylvania, the United States, and spent around 10 years living in Honolulu, Hawaii. Since 2017, he has resided in Japan, and now works for a craft beer brewer in Takamatsu, Kagawa. Biking is his favorite way to get some exercise, and he eagerly anticipates sharing numerous appealing cycling routes throughout Shikoku.