Gravel Enthusiasts Ride Ancient Routes #02
~ Kumano Sanzan Pilgrimage, Exquisite Tuna, Cycle Train ~

Hello, this is Onsen Tamago Negitoro. I’m here to share the second half of our ride through the Kumano Kodo and the Kii Peninsula. We had planned a two-night, three-day ride trip, and we were able to end the first day while gazing at the mountains that felt almost divine. On the second day, we are finally heading to Kumano Hongu Taisha. The excitement is building as we approach the Kumano Sanzan pilgrimage!

Table of Contents

3. Following the Mountain Paths 
4. Red Torii Gates and Lean Tuna

3. Following the Mountain Paths 

On the first day, we planned to stay at a free campsite, and on the second day, we aimed to reach Kumano Hongu Taisha by evening, traveling along the forestry roads that run parallel to the Nakahechi. Planning the route and the supply stops is one of the joys of the journey. The risks of mechanical troubles or road closures are significantly higher on off-road routes compared to on-road ones. A good tip for route planning is to consider a distance or time that is about 0.5 times your stamina and leg strength.

It’s not uncommon to cross the mountains through hand-dug tunnels. Without these tunnels, we would have to detour around or climb the mountains, so we advance with gratitude for the ancestors who carved out these passages in such rugged terrain.

We arrived at Kumano Hongu Taisha just before it got dark.

By the time we left Hongu Town, it had become completely dark, so we hurried to the campsite at our destination. Since it was mid-August, the nighttime temperature didn’t drop below 30°C, making for a tropical night. Once we reached Hongu, the elevation was significantly lower, and although there were no ups and downs, the sticky heat was quite uncomfortable.

4. Red Torii Gates and Lean Tuna

On the final day, we camped at the Kobune Campground, located between Hongu and Shingu, while gazing at the starry sky. Then we headed south towards Shingu City, keeping the Kumano River in our sight. Captivated by the majestic flow of the Kumano River winding between the grand mountains, we stopped many times to take it all in. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of reverence when considering how the river’s blessings serve as a source of life for the rugged Kii Peninsula.

As we descend about 30 km with the Kumano River on our left, we arrive at Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. We aim for our final shrine, Kumano Nachi Taisha, to pray for a safe journey.

Having come down to a low elevation where the sea is visible after a long time, I struggled with the scorching heat from the sun and the reflection off the concrete. The weight of the camping gear made it challenging, and since I had chosen thick tires for off-road conditions, I took breaks to avoid fatigue. The riding experience and terrain adaptability vary significantly depending on whether you lean toward on-road or off-road equipment. By trying different setups, I believe you’ll naturally discover your own riding style and preferences.

From Shingu City, we proceed west along National Route 42, continuing along the coast to Nachikatsuura Town, where Nachi Taisha is located. Even at a leisurely pace, we arrive at Nachikatsuura Town with plenty of time to spare. Because it was a holiday, the restaurants were crowded, and we couldn’t get a table, so we decided to buy tuna from Kitagouri Shoten for our lunch.

Since it was a special occasion, I chose some medium-fatty tuna without looking at the price. I bought rice at the nearby supermarket, and soon I had my homemade tuna bowl ready.

Fresh fish enjoyed while traveling leaves a lasting memory. The rich, melting flesh combined with the special soy sauce created an exquisite flavor that melted in my mouth. I couldn’t help but exclaim, ‘Delicious!’ and finished it in less than five minutes. In that moment, Nachikatsuura surged to the top of my favorite port town rankings (along with places like Himi and Nemuro). Perhaps I should plan a gourmet ride around the Kii Peninsula focused on tuna!

With the seafood bowl dancing in my stomach, I began the hill climb to our final destination. Kumano Nachi Taisha is located halfway up the mountain that rises from the center of Nachikatsuura. There were many cars on the road, and I had to be cautious while riding, which, combined with the heat and the full seafood bowl in my stomach, left little room to enjoy the scenery.

As I am guided by the lanterns of the Yatagarasu, I gradually ascend the winding path. When Nachi Falls comes into view on my right, I know the finish line is just around the corner. I can see the entrance to Kumano Nachi Taisha. Yes! Finally, I’ve reached the goal!

However, after stopping the bicycle, a long flight of stairs awaits. The slope is steep, making it quite strenuous. I take my time to reflect on my journey while preparing myself mentally for the end that is approaching.

After climbing the stairs for about 15 to 20 minutes, I’ve finally reached the goal! I’m so exhausted that I feel like sitting down, but I muster the strength in my knees to hold on. The final stairs were tough, but I’ve accomplished my goal of visiting the Kumano Sanzan. Now, I’ll take my time to pay my respects and pass through the sacred space before safely descending to the station.

After leaving Kumano Nachi Taisha, I slowly head back home. This time, I will take the cycle train from Nachikatsuura to Wakayama Station. It’s very convenient to be able to take my bicycle on board without disassembling it. By shortening the time spent on bike transport, I was able to explore the shopping district of Nachikatsuura right up until the last minute before boarding the train. Combining public transportation with cycling significantly enhances the freedom of travel. I highly recommend everyone to give it a try!

Internal Links
The Bike Travel Professional’s Guide: Domestic Japan Edition #01

🚲Today’s Course

🚲Articles by Ontama Negitoro

The Bike Travel Professional’s Guide Series
● Domestic Japan Edition 01
● Domestic Japan Edition 02

Gravel Enthusiasts Ride Ancient Routes
● Kii Mountain Range, Kumano Kodo, Off-Road
● Kumano Sanzan Pilgrimage, Exquisite Tuna, Cycle Train

Text_Negitoro Ontama

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Ontama Negitoro
Hailing from Sakai City, Osaka Prefecture, Onsen Tamago Negitoro is a company employee, writer, and the administrator of the blog “Bicycle Travel Research Society.” They have been involved in bike camping tours from a young age, having traversed almost all of Japan’s prefectures. During their university years, they were part of a bicycle club and visited over 10 countries solo by bicycle. With extensive experience in bike travel, they undertook an extreme bike camping tour across Hokkaido during the harsh winter of 2023. Recently, they have focused on long-distance rides, earning the SR title in a brevet in 2023 and completing a 1900km brevet during the 2024 Golden Week. They aim to complete PBP and LEL in the future and are also planning to actively pursue overseas bike camping tours.