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To Taste Mackerel at Wakasa Bay! A Parent-Child Ride Along the Saba(Mackerel) Kaido

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Hello, this is Ontama Negitoro.
This time, I rode the Saba Kaido from Kyoto with my father, who’s now in his 50s.
My love for cycling probably comes from the “early training” I received from him—he’s a cyclist himself.
The Saba Kaido is one of the routes we used to ride together several times when I was in elementary school.
Thinking back, we rode pretty far for a kid, didn’t we?
This time, we made the trip again as a parent-child ride, heading all the way to Wakasa Bay in Obama, Fukui Prefecture, for some mackerel!

Table of Contents

1. What is the Saba Kaido?
2. Accessing the Saba Kaido (From Kyoto)
3. Crossing the Oldest Saba Kaido Route: Harihatagoe
4. Remnants of Spring Snow
5. To Kumagawa-juku: A Post Town Echoing with the Sea and Edo Culture
6. In Pursuit of Mackerel

1. What is the Saba Kaido?

Left : Harihatagoe Pass Right : Wakasa Kaido

There is a road known as the Saba Kaido (Mackerel Highway) that runs from Obama City in Fukui Prefecture, which faces the Sea of Japan via Wakasa Bay, all the way to Kyoto.

This historic route dates back to the Heian period and developed further during the Edo period. In an age without refrigeration, fresh mackerel was salted and carried on foot—overnight—along the roughly 72 km (18 ri) journey to Kyoto.

But the Saba Kaido was more than just a route for transporting goods. It played a vital role in fostering cultural exchange and economic ties between Wakasa and Kyoto. Seafood from Wakasa, especially mackerel, greatly contributed to the development of Kyoto cuisine, including the iconic saba-zushi (mackerel sushi).

The official website of Fukui Prefecture introduces seven different cycling routes along the Saba Kaido. Try riding one route on the way there and a different one on the way back—it’s a great way to explore. Of course, creating your own route can be just as rewarding!

Obama City, Fukui Prefecture – Saba Kaido Cycling Map (Japanese only)
https://www1.city.obama.fukui.jp/kanko-bunka/nihonisan/p005774.html

2. Accessing the Saba Kaido (From Kyoto)

The end point of the Saba Kaido. Just ahead lies the Kamo River Delta, and it’s less than a five-minute walk across the bridge from Demachiyanagi Station.

If you’re riding the Saba Kaido from Kyoto toward Obama, the closest station to the starting point is Demachiyanagi Station on the Keihan Railway.

From Kyoto Station, it’s about a 20-minute ride, including a transfer at Tofukuji Station.

From Yodoyabashi Station in Osaka, the trip takes around an hour. It isn’t far from Kyoto’s bustling downtown area, Shijo-Kawaramachi, so a ride along the Kamo River makes for a pleasant start to your journey.

3. Crossing the Oldest Saba Kaido Route: Harihatagoe

Since I was riding with my father this time, I wanted to take the opportunity to show him how much I’ve grown as a cyclist. So instead of taking the standard route alone, I decided to mix in the more challenging Harihatagoe pass with the more commonly traveled Wakasa Kaido route as we made our way to Obama.

The bus stop at Ebumi Pass, where not a single bus runs.

The Wakasa Kaido route follows a national highway, so traffic volume tends to be high. However, once you get past Hanaore Pass, there are no major climbs, and you’ll find shops scattered along the way. It’s a good option for those who may not be confident riding long distances.

A 180-degree hairpin turn — the gradient is even tougher than it looks in the photo.

On the other hand, the Harihatagoe route takes you through several of Kyoto’s most well-known mountain passes. One of the toughest is Hanase Pass, where steep inclines seem to go on forever.
I used to live in Kyoto during my university days and would occasionally ride up Hanase Pass—but just once was more than enough. No seconds for me!

This route is filled with relentless climbs and is quite demanding.
It really makes you admire how people in the past used to cross these mountains on foot, traveling all the way to and from the Sea of Japan.

As a side note, this year’s theme for The Japanese Odyssey—a Japanese cycling event gaining attention from Global Ride—is “Mountain Passes.” While there are no checkpoints around Kyoto this time, it’s clear that even the French organizers are captivated by Japan’s mountain passes.

*You can check out the climb-packed route for The Japanese Odyssey 2025 here.

The tough climbs keep coming—and my father is nowhere in sight behind me.

I was reminded of how, back in the day, I used to chase after my father’s broad back with all my might as we rode from Kyoto to Obama.

From the mountain pass summit, I gazed out at the distant peaks. Though it was nearly April, I could still see snow on the far-off mountains.

4. Remnants of Spring Snow

Kyoto’s Kitayama region is known for heavy snowfall, with substantial accumulation during the winter months.
As we crossed several mountain passes, we passed through small villages nestled deep in the mountains—places where steep, winding roads are the only way in or out. In winter, the heavy snow makes life in these remote areas especially harsh.

After a short break, we continued on toward Obama.
Long ago, travelers—perhaps accompanied by oxen and horses loaded with seafood—might have also stopped to rest in these very same villages.

Before I knew it, there was snow beside the road. Thanks to thorough snow clearing, riding a road bike posed no problems.

At the far end of Kyoto’s Kitayama area, near the border with Shiga Prefecture, there is still snow along the roadside. Since it’s the end of March, I didn’t expect to see any, but this shows how harsh the conditions in this region are.

So far, I have been riding along the Harihata-goe route, but ahead lies the challenging Onyu Pass. Therefore, I will merge onto the Wakasa Kaido road instead.

5. To Kumagawa-juku: A Post Town Echoing with the Sea and Edo Culture

A saba sushi shop on the Wakasa Kaido. As you get closer to Obama, more and more saba sushi shops appear.

After merging onto the Wakasa Kaido, I started to spot a few saba (mackerel) shops here and there.
It reminded me of when I stopped for a break with my father long ago and ate saba sushi.
Now I’m getting hungry!

A short break. You can also learn about the history of the Saba Kaido here.

Passing through the Wakasa Kaido and entering Fukui Prefecture, you’ll be greeted by Kumagawa-juku, a former post town.
Take a short break at the roadside station, then explore the historic post town located just behind it!

I arrived in Kumagawa-juku in the evening, so it was very quiet. The buildings lined up here truly evoke the atmosphere of a historic post town.
You can also stay overnight, so it might be a good idea to rest well here and head to Obama first thing in the morning.

The Obama-side entrance of Kumagawa-juku. I imagine how relieved the travelers from the Sea of Japan must have felt when they arrived here long ago.

6. In Pursuit of Mackerel

After passing Kumagawa-juku, the road gently descends all the way to the Sea of Japan.
As you get closer to Obama, traffic gradually increases, so stay alert and be safe until the very end!
The saba you’ve been looking forward to is just ahead!

Look for the giant saba face as your landmark! Don’t miss it for anything!

And finally, the goal!
About 75 kilometers from Kyoto. Since I took the Harihata-goe route for part of the way this time, the total distance was around 100 km.
This spot marks the starting point of the Saba Kaido, so starting from Obama is also recommended.
There’s a tourist information center near Obama’s main shopping street where you can rent bicycles, so it might be a good idea to borrow one and ride around.

This is the starting point of the Saba Kaido.
The monument is located in front of the Saba Kaido Museum, making it a perfect spot to take commemorative photos at the start or finish of your journey.

So, having completed the Saba Kaido, I decided to stop by “Oshokujidokoro Mitsuya,” located near the shopping street!
I was pretty hungry by then, so I chose to order a deluxe saba set meal.

This set meal lets you enjoy both grilled salted saba and simmered saba!
The fish is firm and incredibly delicious!
Of course, it comes with a generous serving of white rice!
The miso soup warms you up, especially when your body is chilled. It was all worth it for this moment…

When I rode around the Kii Peninsula, I also ate tuna in Nachikatsuura Town, but fish tasted right at the source always feels different. Since it’s freshly caught, the umami seems so much more concentrated.

By the way, my father and I couldn’t get enough of just the set meal, so we also ordered soba noodles!
We’ve both been big eaters since way back, and that hasn’t changed. It’s a little comforting to see that.
It’s been about 15 years since then, and now I can ride around Shikoku’s 1,000 km loop in just about three days, and somehow I’m now ahead of my father.

Maybe someday, if I have children, they’ll be following in my footsteps just like I followed my father’s.

I took a train with my bike from Obama Station.

This time, I rode along the historic Saba Kaido.
For those with plenty of energy, taking alternative routes for a round trip can offer even more enjoyment of the mountain scenery and local culture between Kyoto and Shiga.
The Saba Kaido is also easily accessible from Kyoto Station.
Be sure to stop by by bike and enjoy some delicious saba (mackerel)!

Text_Onatama Negitoro

References
Official Website of Obama City, Fukui Prefecture
“About the Japan Heritage ‘Miketsukuni Wakasa and the Saba Kaido’” (Japanese only)
https://www1.city.obama.fukui.jp/kanko-bunka/nihonisan/p005774.html

Miketsukuni Wakasa and the Saba Kaido
“Story: The Starting Point of the Saba Kaido — Obama, a Bustling Port Town”
https://www1.city.obama.fukui.jp/japan_heritage/story/index.php?id=3

Kumagawa-juku Official Website: “Kumagawa-juku”
https://kumagawa-juku.com/

Official Wakasa Obama Tourism Association Website:
“About the Wakasa Obama Tourist Information Center” (Japanese only)
https://wakasa-obama.jp/info-place/

🚲Articles by Ontama Negitoro

The Bike Travel Professional’s Guide Series
● Domestic Japan Edition 01
● Domestic Japan Edition 02

Gravel Enthusiasts Ride Ancient Routes
● Kii Mountain Range, Kumano Kodo, Off-Road
● Kumano Sanzan Pilgrimage, Exquisite Tuna, Cycle Train

Riding the 1000km Around Shikoku
● An Ultra-Distance Journey by a Gravel Enthusiast

Why Travel to Cape Soya by Bicycle?
● Welcoming the New Year at Japan’s Northernmost Point

Watch Out for Makibishi (Caltrops) !
● A Short Cycling Trip to the Ninja Village

To Taste Mackerel at Wakasa Bay!
A Parent-Child Ride Along the Saba(Mackerel) Kaido

Profile

Ontama Negitoro
Hailing from Sakai City, Osaka Prefecture, Onsen Tamago Negitoro is a company employee, writer, and the administrator of the blog “Bicycle Travel Research Society.” They have been involved in bike camping tours from a young age, having traversed almost all of Japan’s prefectures. During their university years, they were part of a bicycle club and visited over 10 countries solo by bicycle. With extensive experience in bike travel, they undertook an extreme bike camping tour across Hokkaido during the harsh winter of 2023. Recently, they have focused on long-distance rides, earning the SR title in a brevet in 2023 and completing a 1900km brevet during the 2024 Golden Week. They aim to complete PBP and LEL in the future and are also planning to actively pursue overseas bike camping tours.

Post Date：2025.05.29

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