Gravel Enthusiasts Ride Ancient Routes #01
~ Kii Mountain Range, Kumano Kodo, Off-Road ~
~ Kii Mountain Range, Kumano Kodo, Off-Road ~
Cycling Journey Through Wakayama
– A 3-Day, 2-Night Adventure Around the Mountains and Sea (Part 1)
I live in Ehime, and Kojima-kun lives in Kochi. We’re both married and often find ourselves caught up in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. “Let’s take a little break for once”—this casual remark sparked the beginning of our 3-day, 2-night cycling adventure.
Our destination of choice was Wakayama Prefecture, known for both its easy access from Shikoku and its stunning natural landscapes on the Kii Peninsula. On Day 1, we planned a mountainous route from Aridagawa Town up to the cool Oishi Highlands. Day 2 would take us along the spectacular ria coastline of Hidaka and Shirasaki. It was an ambitious itinerary, packed with the best of Wakayama’s mountains and sea.
Thanks to the Nankai Ferry connecting Tokushima Port and Wakayama Port, this area actually feels fairly close to us. And being just about an hour and a half by car from Kansai International Airport, it’s also well within reach for travelers from overseas or the Tokyo region.
That said, getting there from Ehime and Kochi still takes about six hours, so arriving on the day of departure would’ve been too rushed. We decided to set out Friday afternoon and spend the night nearby. Then, starting fresh on Saturday, we’d begin our cycling trip.
Text_Ryuji Ise
Photo_Tatz Shimizu
Day 1: A Mountain Route from Aridagawa Town — To Oishi Highlands, One of Kansai’s Premier Silver Grass Highlands
Route Overview
Starting Point: “TADONO the bedroom” in Aridagawa Town
Route: Aridagawa Town → Oishi Highlands → “Akadama Wasabi Sushi” → Aragi-jima Terraced Rice Fields → Café “kado” → Lodging via National Route 480
Total Distance: 75.33 km
Ride Time: 3 hours 39 minutes
Elevation Gain: 1,197 m
Highlights: Challenging climbs through the mountains, refreshing cool air on the highlands, and an exhilarating descent on the return journey.
To kick off our first day of cycling in Wakayama, we stayed the night at “TADONO the bedroom” in Aridagawa Town. This unique accommodation, opened in 2023, is a renovated former nursery school that has quickly become a talked-about spot. The long glass-walled corridors and signs bearing old classroom names like Bara-gumi (Rose Class) and Momo-gumi (Peach Class) retain the building’s original charm, while the modern interior design gives it a stylish, contemporary feel.
From this base, we set off toward our first destination of the day: Oishi Highlands. The rainy season ended earlier than usual this year, and even in the morning, the sun was already blazing down. “Today’s going to be intense,” I thought, bracing myself as I pushed down on the pedals.
Table of Contents
1. Tranquility by the River and an Unexpected Trial
2. An Unforeseen Encounter
3. When in Doubt, Take the Tougher Path
4. A Taste That Defies Expectations – Wasabi Sushi at “Akadama”
5. A Glimpse of Traditional Japan – The Terraced Rice Fields of Aragi-jima
6. A Zesty Encounter with Sanshō Pepper at Café “kado”
7. A Complete Shift – Smooth Downhill Ride Along the Aridagawa River
8. Summer Memories Rekindled by the Riverside
9. A Sense of Fulfillment at Day’s End
1. Tranquility by the River and an Unexpected Trial
Leaving the urban area of Aridagawa Town behind, we rode for a while until the gentle sound of a clear river reached our ears. Glancing to the roadside, we found a beautiful river sparkling in the sunlight. This was the upper reaches of the Aridagawa River, known as a pristine stream flowing down from the Koyasan mountain range. Drawn by the intense heat, we spontaneously took a refreshing dip by the riverbank. This unplanned cool-off was the true luxury of adults unburdened by the constraints of time.
The road to Oishi Highlands proved to be a greater challenge than we had imagined. The endless uphill climb mercilessly drained the strength from our legs. With few people or cars passing by, the two of us kept riding steadily up the slope. Kojima and I barely spoke, yet the silence felt strangely comforting. As the rhythm of our pedaling synced with our heartbeats and the dense trees gradually gave way to open views, we reached that blissful moment the tough climb rewards you with. And finally, we arrived at Oishi Highlands.
At an elevation of 870 meters, the highlands offer a peaceful and luxurious escape far removed from the noise of the city. On the vast green carpet of grass, couples enjoy picnics while families gather around barbecues. Above, RC plane enthusiasts gracefully glide their models through the sky, each savoring their own perfect way to spend the day off.
2. An Unforeseen Encounter
As we were captivated by the RC planes gracefully dancing in the sky, one of the enthusiasts kindly let us hold his prized model. Judging by the meticulous care it had received, I felt that their love for these aircraft was exactly the same as the passion we cyclists have for our bikes.
To our surprise, among the group was someone who had once worked on developing bicycle brakes at Shimano’s headquarters. This chance encounter with an engineer from Shimano—the world-renowned bicycle components manufacturer based in Sakai City—was a true delight for us cyclists. He noticed our bikes, struck up a conversation, and we eagerly exchanged stories about the familiar Shimano products we all cherish.
Hearing insider stories like, “There was actually this clever design behind the brake lever…” was a rare and valuable experience. Glancing sideways at Kojima, who gave a wry smile and said, “The geek in me is definitely coming out…,” I realized that these kinds of chance encounters during a trip are truly one of the charms of cycling tourism.
3. When in Doubt, Take the Tougher Path
The route from Oishi Highlands to our lunch destination was mostly downhill. We hesitated between taking the main prefectural road or an underused forest trail, but decided on the latter—after all, we wanted to take the more interesting path.
Though the trail was rough in places, the dense greenery provided natural shade throughout. The dappled sunlight filtering through the leaves created a mystical pattern of light and shadow, enhancing the spirit of our journey.
Exchanging a glance, Kojima and I agreed, “This was definitely the right choice.” If we had gotten a flat tire, we might have regretted it—but in the end, it turned out to be the perfect decision.
4. A Taste That Defies Expectations – Wasabi Sushi at “Akadama”
Akadama, famous for its wasabi sushi, is a long-established restaurant founded in 1963 and has been loved as a local specialty of Shimizu Town (now Shimizu in Aridagawa Town) for over 60 years. We ordered their signature wasabi sushi set meal. Honestly, as someone who isn’t fond of wasabi, I was a bit hesitant, but I mustered up the courage to try it because it’s their specialty.
When I actually tasted it, I was amazed by its delicate flavor that completely defied my expectations. It was a moment that overturned my fixed ideas about wasabi. The key feature of this wasabi sushi is that it uses authentic wasabi leaves grown locally. Shimizu in Aridagawa Town benefits from the clear streams of the Koyasan mountain range, providing an ideal environment for wasabi cultivation. The wasabi has an elegant spiciness and sweetness that pairs perfectly with the sushi.
The small side dishes of mountain vegetables were each carefully seasoned, offering a series of small delightful discoveries. The soba noodles kneaded with sanshō pepper were fragrant and had a gentle, soothing taste that revitalized our bodies weary from the summer heat.
5. A Glimpse of Traditional Japan – The Terraced Rice Fields of Aragi-jima
After lunch, we visited the famous terraced rice fields of Aragi-jima in Aridagawa Town. These approximately 54 terraced fields spread out in a stepped pattern across a crescent-shaped landform created by the meandering Aridagawa River. The scene looks like a masterpiece where nature and human ingenuity harmonize beautifully.
These rice terraces have been selected as one of the “Top 100 Terraced Rice Fields in Japan,” and in 2013, along with the surrounding landscape, were designated as an Important Cultural Landscape by the Japanese government. During the spring planting season, the blue sky reflects on the water-filled fields, while in autumn, the golden rice stalks ripple like waves, creating a stunning view. In recent years, maintaining the terraces has become difficult due to aging and depopulation, but conservation efforts continue with the cooperation of local residents, government, and volunteers.
While my hometown Ehime Prefecture also boasts several beautiful terraced rice fields, given the nationwide threat to their survival, I was deeply moved by the desire to preserve this beauty for future generations.
6. A Zesty Encounter with Sanshō Pepper at Café “kado”
For dessert after lunch, we stopped by Café “kado,” where you can enjoy soft serve ice cream and drinks made with the region’s specialty—sanshō pepper. The café retains the charm of a traditional Japanese house, featuring thick wooden beams and an earthen floor. It even has a small engawa (veranda), creating a space that beautifully conveys the appeal of classic Japanese architecture in a modern setting.
Aridagawa Town is also known for its sanshō production, especially the cultivation of grape sanshō. The sanshō from this area is characterized by large berries and a strong aroma, making it highly prized even by upscale Japanese restaurants. Inside the café, there were already about three groups of customers enjoying their meals; we caught sight of someone eating curry. Although we hadn’t checked beforehand, it seems they also offer lunch menus.
Having just finished lunch, we ordered soft serve ice cream and drinks. I had imagined a simple vanilla soft serve sprinkled with sanshō powder, but kado’s soft cream was far more elaborate than I expected. The cream was blended with a paste made from sanshō leaves, and freshly ground sanshō flakes were sprinkled on top.
This created a cream that was milder in sweetness than vanilla, with the flaky sanshō adding a perfect, subtle accent. It was a surprisingly delicious treat.
Is sanshō really this versatile?
7. A Complete Shift – Smooth Downhill Ride Along the Aridagawa River
That day’s route turned around near Shimizu in Aridagawa Town, then gently descended along National Route 480 on the way back to the lodging. In contrast to the challenging mountain road we had tackled earlier, the downhill stretch along the Aridagawa River on the national route offered the perfect setting to fully enjoy the thrill of cutting through the wind on a bicycle.
“Yes, this is the feeling of freedom!” I cheered quietly to myself, proud of choosing a route that showed two completely different faces on the outbound and return legs. National Route 480, running along the Aridagawa River, is affectionately known as the “Seiryu Line” (Clear Stream Line) because of its beautiful scenery.
On the return journey, we were captivated by the majestic presence of the Futagawa Dam, a vital lifeline for the region. Completed in 1968, this dam serves both flood control and power generation purposes, significantly contributing to the development of the Aridagawa River basin. The area around the dam’s reservoir is also famous for cherry blossoms and attracts many visitors during springtime hanami.
We also mixed in some local sightseeing elements, such as cautiously walking across Zaō Bridge, whose floor is made of iron grating. Watching grown adults in their thirties scream “This is scary!” while enjoying the thrill was, in hindsight, quite an endearing sight.
8. Summer Memories Rekindled by the Riverside
As we sped down the refreshing downhill stretch of the national road, we spotted people playing by the riverside. We couldn’t resist joining in and enjoying the water once again. In the harsh Japanese summer, the cold river water felt like an oasis in the desert.
Around us, families were having fun with water play and barbecues. Watching them brought a wave of nostalgia, making us feel like we had returned to summer vacations from our childhood. It was a moment that truly captured the essence of a Japanese summer.
The road along the Aridagawa River gradually began to flatten out, and the green of the mandarin orange fields once again filled our view. With the finish line now just within sight, we dug deep to summon the last of our energy, pedaling hard for a final push to close out the day.
9. A Sense of Fulfillment at Day’s End
Arriving back at “TADONO the bedroom,” we wrapped up the first day at “GOLDEN RIVER,” a spot on the property, with non-alcoholic beer and hamburgers. The toast of “Cheers to a great day!” echoed pleasantly through the evening air.
Because it was a carefree trip with close friends, we were able to fully enjoy the first day at our own pace, to the fullest.
With excitement for tomorrow’s route in our hearts, we headed to our accommodation for the night, “Hamanoya” in Hidaka Town.
Located right on the beach along the next day’s route, this inn offers an unbeatable setting. To the sound of the waves, we savored fresh seafood nurtured by the local sea, and our conversations carried on late into the night. Staying up late in our thirties definitely takes its toll the next day, but we decided to leave that worry for tomorrow.
The story continues in Part 2 of Day 2, as we explore the breathtaking ria coastline of Wakayama Prefecture.
🚲 List of Stopover Points
TADONO the bedroom https://tadono.com/
Oishi Highlands https://www.wakayamakanko.com/sightseeing/nature4.html?utm
Akadama Wasabi Sushi https://akadama-wakayama.com/
Aragi-jima https://www.aridagawa-kanko.jp/spot/aragijima/
kado Café https://kado-sanshou.com/photo
Futagawa Dam https://www.town.aridagawa.lg.jp/top/kakuka/kanaya/9/2/keikan/611.html
GOLDEN RIVER https://golden-river.jp/
Hamanoya https://hamanoya-minn-shuku.amebaownd.com/
Aridagawa Town Cycling Course https://www.aridagawa-kanko.jp/spot/cycling/
🚲 Access to Aridagawa Town — Sample Routes
From the Kansai Area (Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, etc.)
Departure: Osaka (JR Osaka Station / Tennoji Station)
From JR Tennoji Station or Shin-Osaka Station, take the Limited Express Kuroshio bound for Shirahama and get off at Fujinami Station
Duration: About 1 hour 30 minutes
Fujinami Station is the nearest station to Aridagawa Town
From the Kanto Area (Tokyo, Yokohama, etc.)
Departure: Tokyo Station
From Tokyo Station, take the Tokaido Shinkansen “Nozomi” to Shin-Osaka Station (about 2 hours 30 minutes)
From Shin-Osaka Station, take the Limited Express Kuroshio bound for Shirahama and get off at Fujinami Station
Total duration: Approximately 4 hours
Note: Some Limited Express Kuroshio trains pass through Fujinami Station without stopping, so please check the timetable in advance
Departure: Haneda Airport
Fly from Haneda Airport to Nanki-Shirahama Airport (JAL, about 1 hour)
From Shirahama, rent a car or take the limited express train back to Fujinami Station (a slightly longer route)
Profile
Writer
Ryuji Ise — Passionate about competitive cycling since high school, Ryuji has worked as an editor for cycling magazines and in the apparel industry. In 2022, he relocated to Ehime Prefecture, where alongside his main career in apparel, he also works as a guide involved in inbound cycle tourism.
Photographer
Tats Shimizu — A photo and videographer and editor-in-chief of the cycling media outlet LOVE CYCLIST. With 12 years of experience in the sport bike scene, he enjoys exploring the sports bike industry—mainly road bikes—from a marketing perspective. He has worked extensively on shoots for domestic and international bicycle brands, maintains a broad network of connections, and proposes various cycling styles through media channels. His main bikes are a Standert (road) and a Factor (gravel).
Post Date：2025.08.04
