Hi, I’m Ontama Negitoro, an avid cyclist mainly active in the Kansai region. I just love to ride—whether it’s a quick spin around my hometown, a full tour around Shikoku, or a Japan-crossing brevet. After countless journeys, I’ve come to truly appreciate the saying, “Where there’s a road, there’s a scenic view.”
This time, I set out on a ride that’s both niche and deeply rewarding—rich in natural beauty and historical intrigue. It’s a route that will also appeal to architecture enthusiasts.

Let’s head to Tojo Town in Shobara City, eastern Hiroshima Prefecture!

Table of Contents

1. Traces of an Ancient Trade Route
2. The Taste of Manjū Passed Down Since the Edo Period
3. Sanrakusō: A Modern Japanese-Style Building Registered as a National Cultural Property
4. Exploring Scenic Wonders Shaped by Karst Terrain

1. Traces of an Ancient Trade Route

Tojo Town, located in Shobara City in eastern Hiroshima Prefecture, is home to the dynamic natural beauty of Taishaku Gorge, which stretches across a karst plateau. Once a thriving trade route connecting the Sanyo and San‘in Sanin regions, the town still retains traces of its prosperous past. Nestled deep in the Chūgoku Mountains, it borders both Tottori and Okayama Prefectures and is surrounded by rugged terrain.

By car or rental car, take the Chūgoku Expressway to the Tojo IC. It’s about 90 minutes from either the Okayama or Hiroshima IC, and around 80 minutes from the Fukuyama Nishi IC.
By train, disembark at Tojo Station on the Geibi Line. It takes approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes from Okayama Station and 3 hours from Hiroshima Station.

In the first half of the 1500s, during Japan’s Sengoku period, Tojo Town flourished as a castle town centered around Gohondake Castle. It also thrived as a key stop along the trade route for tatara ironmaking, which connected the Sanyo and regions.

Today, the Tojo River divides the town—on the east bank, you’ll find wide roads and modern shopping centers, while the west bank retains the charm of the old castle town and serves as the historical heart of the area. This time, I took a leisurely cycling tour through the west bank’s old town center.

Even on a Sunday afternoon, the streets are quiet, with hardly anyone in sight. My friend and I have this charming shopping arcade all to ourselves.
There’s a reason we came to visit this particular arcade today.

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2. The Taste of Manjū Passed Down Since the Edo Period

Takeya Manjū Shop.
This place had caught my attention for some time.
That’s because when coming from the Shobara side, its large sign is clearly visible.

It would feel almost rude not to stop by after seeing this sign.
So, since we’re here, we decided to pay a visit.

Takeya Manjū is a well-established shop founded in 1861.
Their sake manjū has been welcoming visitors to this town for over 160 years.
That dates back to the Edo period. It’s likely one of the longest-running shops in Japan.

I took a bite.
The chewy texture and just-right sweetness of the red bean paste were perfect.
I noticed a faint aroma of sake at first, which surprised me—I wondered if it actually contained alcohol.
It turns out all the alcohol evaporates during the manufacturing process, leaving only a subtle scent behind.
Sake lovers will surely find this irresistible.
Occasionally, these manjū are also sold irregularly in Hiroshima City, so be sure to check if you’re nearby.

While enjoying the manjū, I came across a building that seemed to carry a sense of history.

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3. Sanrakusō: A Modern Japanese-Style Building Registered as a National Cultural Property

Peeking inside, we were greeted by the caretaker, and since we had the chance, we decided to take a look around.

He told us that this building is called Sanrakusō, a townhouse dating back to 1891, from the Meiji era.
It was built by a local merchant who commissioned Ryutaro Yokoyama, a master carpenter renowned in Tojo.
The building has been handed down through generations and remains a valuable heritage structure today.

According to the guide who explained the site to us, the large reception room in the detached wing used to host local events and wedding receptions in the past.
Water was drawn from the foot of the mountain in the direction of this garden, recreating a pond and stream within the garden itself.
Living while enjoying this view—doesn’t that feel like such a luxury?
The scale is on a whole different level.

Looking closely, even the pillars and decorative details are exquisitely crafted, suggesting that the owner of this townhouse was quite a connoisseur.

Rare materials like Yakusugi cedar, as well as sturdy hinoki cypress and keyaki elm, were generously used—materials that are difficult to obtain nowadays.
Though the building may appear modest at first glance, a closer look reveals a bold and impressive character.

The “flower-shaped window,” which allows you to enjoy changing patterns through the interplay of light and the opening and closing of the window, is wonderfully elegant—a luxurious feature that makes you want to admire it throughout the day.

This building is currently managed by Shobara City as a nationally registered tangible cultural property, but in the past, the second floor of the main building was used as a guesthouse.
I wish I had been born in a time when staying here was possible…

Time flew by as we toured the building.
Japan still has many wonderful historic buildings remaining.
While traveling, I often have the chance to visit various architectural sites, but it’s rare to be able to explore the details as thoroughly as here.
If you visit Shobara City, be sure to stop by.

Sanrakusō
https://www.shobara-info.com/spot/232

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4. Exploring Scenic Wonders Shaped by Karst Terrain

Next, we head to Taishaku Gorge, one of Japan’s Top 100 Scenic Spots.
It’s about a 13 km ride from Tojo Town to Taishaku Gorge.

Because the karst plateau surrounding this town is encircled by mountains, unfortunately, you have to climb steep slopes no matter which way you go.
After slowly making your way up the winding switchbacks and descending a sharp curved downhill, you’ll soon see Taishakuten Eimeiji Temple and Sainokawara near Taishaku Gorge.

When you spot the maple leaf symbol painted on the road, you’re almost at the entrance to Taishaku Gorge.

Taishaku Gorge is famous for “Onbashi,” a natural bridge formed by erosion from the flowing river. Natural bridges are rare and precious, and Onbashi is not only renowned in Japan but is also recognized as one of the world’s three great natural bridges.
Its immense size made me exclaim “Wow!” when I first saw it from a distance.
It takes about 15 minutes by bike from the entrance of Taishaku Gorge to Onbashi.
Since the path is unpaved, if you’re riding a road bike with narrow tires, it might be better to park at the nearby lot and walk. Be careful, as there are many pedestrians.

When visiting Taishaku Gorge, don’t forget to stop by Hakuundō (White Cloud Cave).
The Chūgoku Mountains are home to many limestone caves, such as Akiyoshidō, but Hakuundō stands out for its impressive scale and otherworldly beauty.

At first glance, it may look like a narrow cave, but once inside, it opens up into a surprisingly vast world.
The temperature inside remains steady at around 11°C year-round, and compared to the mild spring air outside, it felt refreshingly cool.
It must be especially pleasant in the summer!

After enjoying Taishaku Gorge, I head back to Tojo via Lake Shinryū.
In the past, it was possible to follow the gorge down to the lake, but due to a landslide, the path is now closed.
There is an alternative trekking route, but it’s not suitable for bicycles, so I took the detour along the prefectural road.

Lake Shinryū was created during the Taishō era, and you can even take a sightseeing boat ride across it.

The name comes from its dragon-like shape when viewed from above.
I initially assumed it had something to do with the Chūgoku Mountains or the legend of Yamata-no-Orochi, given the name—turns out I was overthinking it! 😄

Also, be sure to check out the Kosuibiraki (Lake Opening) event held every year at the end of April.

Finally, after picking up a few souvenirs by the shores of Lake Shinryū, it’s time for a downhill ride back to Tojo Town!
It’s about 9 kilometers of smooth descent.

So, what did you think?
Why not explore the hidden gems of the Chūgoku Mountains and experience the historic sights of Tojo Town by bicycle?


Today’s route

Text_Ontama Negitoro


References

Shobara Tourism Navi (Tojo Town, Taishaku Gorge, Hakuundo)
https://www.shobara-info.com/spot/4027
https://www.shobara-info.com/4255
https://www.shobara-info.com/spot/846

Takeya Manjū Honpo
http://ta-ke-ya.com/

🚲Articles by Ontama Negitoro

The Bike Travel Professional’s Guide Series
● Domestic Japan Edition 01
● Domestic Japan Edition 02

Gravel Enthusiasts Ride Ancient Routes
● Kii Mountain Range, Kumano Kodo, Off-Road
● Kumano Sanzan Pilgrimage, Exquisite Tuna, Cycle Train

Riding the 1000km Around Shikoku
● An Ultra-Distance Journey by a Gravel Enthusiast

Why Travel to Cape Soya by Bicycle?
● Welcoming the New Year at Japan’s Northernmost Point

Watch Out for Makibishi (Caltrops) !
● A Short Cycling Trip to the Ninja Village

To Taste Mackerel at Wakasa Bay!
A Parent-Child Ride Along the Saba(Mackerel) Kaido

Hidden Gem of Hiroshima
Cycling Through Taishaku Gorge in Tojo Town

Profile

Ontama Negitoro
Hailing from Sakai City, Osaka Prefecture, Onsen Tamago Negitoro is a company employee, writer, and the administrator of the blog “Bicycle Travel Research Society.” They have been involved in bike camping tours from a young age, having traversed almost all of Japan’s prefectures. During their university years, they were part of a bicycle club and visited over 10 countries solo by bicycle. With extensive experience in bike travel, they undertook an extreme bike camping tour across Hokkaido during the harsh winter of 2023. Recently, they have focused on long-distance rides, earning the SR title in a brevet in 2023 and completing a 1900km brevet during the 2024 Golden Week. They aim to complete PBP and LEL in the future and are also planning to actively pursue overseas bike camping tours.

Post Date：2025.06.25