Recently, there’s been an interest in natural wine*. It surprisingly shares a connection with bicycles, which is often noticeable on its labels. This column will delve into the world of natural wine related to cycling, featuring insights from various buyers and importers. Starting off, Mizue Kawamura from ‘WINES&THINGS’ in Naka-Meguro, Tokyo, will share their expertise. Stay tuned for irregular installments that coincide with new arrivals!
I generally explain ‘What is natural wine?’ as ‘Wines made without human intervention.’ The philosophy shared among unique natural wine producers is to ‘let nature take its course.’ Natural wines bring out the potential of grapes with minimal human involvement, allowing nature to lead the way. One of the pleasures is the creative labels expressing individual worldviews. The emotions and intentions of the winemakers are often reflected in the cuvée*, making them a captivating sight.
The wine I’d like to introduce this time is ‘NUCLEO 1 Rosso’ ’20 from the producer Programma Agricolo Dinamo, a label from the region of Umbria in Italy. This wine uses half Gamay de Trasimeno, a lesser-known local grape variety, and half Sangiovese, the most popular black grape variety in Italy. It’s a rich and juicy red wine with a deep color and robust flavor. Despite its ample fruity notes, it has a supple texture, making it surprisingly easy to drink, and you might find yourself easily consuming almost a liter without noticing.
The ‘Dinamo Agriculture Program’ is a collaboration between the Nofrini family, grape farmers for 40 years, and Danilo Marcucci, a leading figure in Italy’s natural wine scene. Marcucci aimed to capture the impulse he felt when he first started making wine with his grandfather, something he cherished throughout his long involvement in winemaking.
The bicycle on the label pays homage to the old ways of winemaking. In the past, bicycles were an essential means of transporting harvested grapes and finished wines between the cellar and the shops, connecting producers and consumers. Additionally, the ‘Dinamo Agriculture Program’ is rooted in the idea that wines back then were a source of energy for people during farm work, and the hope is that even in modern times, it becomes a generator for those who consume it.
In Italy’s classic films like ‘Il Postino’ or ‘Cinema Paradiso,’ bicycles often play a significant role. They carried mail or took people to work, symbolizing a physical connection between individuals. With a gentle sway, reminiscing about the old landscapes, one might just take a trip into the world
Today’s Natural Wine
Today’s Natural Wine Programma Agricolo Dinamo “NUCLEO 1 Rosso”
【Net】1000ml 【Vineyard】 Italy / Umbria 【Variety】Gamey del Trasimeno 50％、Sangiovese 50％ 【Type】Red 【Process】Fermentation with natural yeasts, maceration for 6 days Aging in fiber tanks No SO2 added, non-filtered, non-collaged.
*Natural Wine _Unlike organic wines, which are certified by specific organizations, natural wine is defined by individual producers’ practices and philosophies. Generally, it refers to wines made from pesticide-free organic grapes and produced without any additives, including artificial yeast, during fermentation. Natural wine is crafted by producers who prioritize natural methods in both the vineyard and the winery.
*Cuvée _ It is believed that the term originated from the fermentation tank (Cuve) that turns harvested grapes into alcohol. Initially used to refer to the wine within the fermentation vat, it’s now often used for small-batch or special wines.
Profile
Mizue Kawamura ワインショップ WINES&THINGS 店主
Owner, Wine Shop WINES&THINGS Born in Tokyo. After working in the music and film industry, began working with natural wines in 2021, a passion held for some time. Following about two years of operating an online shop, finally fulfilled a long-cherished dream by opening the first physical store in November 2023 in the local area of Naka-Meguro. Also engages in food pairing and wine coordination through the hobby of cooking.
