Hello, I’m Ontama Negitoro.
This time, I’d like to introduce a short cycling trip to the “Town of Shinobi” in Iga City, Mie Prefecture, a place famous for ninjas.
When asked about famous historical spots in the Kansai region, most people would mention the ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto. The “Town of Shinobi” is located along the route connecting these historic cities and major urban centers like Osaka to Mie Prefecture, home to the Ise Grand Shrine. Quite fitting for a place known for its stealth, don’t you think?
Table of Contents
1. Onto the Iga Kaido, Where Ninjas Once Raced Through
2. A Castle Fit for a Shinobi – Admiring Hakuho Castle
3. That’s a Ninja House!
4. A Journey of Mochi Dango (rice dumplings) and Hot Springs
As you might expect, Iga City is filled with spots where you can immerse yourself in ninja culture and history, even today. Since it was once a castle town, the city center is laid out in a grid pattern with minimal elevation changes, making it easy to navigate by bicycle. Well-maintained cycling routes connect the surrounding areas and the city center, and the bike rental shop near the station is a welcome service for tourists. Of course, road bikes are available as well!
For more details, please check here.
https://igaichi.com/
This time, we’ll be cycling the 13.8km “Iga Choi” course, which loops around the center of Iga City. The starting point is Ninja City Station.
The “Iga Choi” course takes you along the starting point of the Iga Kaido, a road that flourished as a route to Ise Province (Ise no Kuni), which is said to have been established around the 7th century.
The Iga Kaido thrived during the early Edo period. It became a busy thoroughfare when Tōdō Takatora, who employed ninjas as “shinobi-shū,” was active as a feudal lord of Ise and Iga. The road was used for pilgrimages to Ise Shrine, as well as for transporting seafood from Ise and cotton from Iga, playing a key role in trade.
For those confident in their legs, cycling along the Iga Kaido all the way to Tsu and Ise might offer an interesting experience, allowing you to immerse yourself in the daily life of people from the Edo period.
The “Iga Choi” course takes you along Teramachi Street, which is slightly off the Iga Kaido, surrounded by white walls.
Temples are everywhere, in every direction! Even as someone who lived in Kyoto, I think it’s quite rare to see such a dense concentration of temples. It’s an area where you can push your bike and take photos that really stand out.
When it comes to Iga, the Iga Ueno Castle and the Iga-ryū Ninja Museum are a must-see.
The castle and museum are located next to each other, so you can park your bike and take your time walking around to explore both. Let’s start with the castle.
The current castle is not from the Sengoku to Edo periods but was reconstructed in the 1930s. However, the white tenshu (main keep) has a majestic presence that truly lives up to its name, Hakuho (white phoenix) Castle. Be sure to experience it for yourself, with your own eyes and legs.
Now, let’s focus on the “ninja.”
As you look closely around the town, you might spot hidden ninjas (though they might appear even without looking too hard).
Cycling through, it feels like you’ve wandered into the world of ninjas.
While enjoying your ride, be careful not to get caught up in the chaos of the shinobi world!
Arriving at the Iga-ryū Ninja Museum, you can explore ninja mechanisms, ingenious ways of life, and view weapons and tools that were actually used by ninjas.
You can experience the ninja house with an explanation from a ninja, feeling the traces of daily life. You’ll get to see hidden doors, concealed weapons, secret passageways, and various other tricks—before you know it, time will fly by. If you time it right, you can also catch a ninja show!
The Iga-ryū Ninja Museum is packed with content, including the ninja house, the museum, and the ninja show, so it’s recommended to visit with plenty of time to spare.
Iga-ryū Ninja Museum
https://www.iganinja.jp/?page_id=837
Along the course, there are many traditional Japanese sweet shops. This time, we were drawn to the display case and decided to stop at Kagiya Mochi Shop. Since we were there, we decided to try some Mitarashi Dango. The owner, who is an elderly man, makes the mochi by hand, and when we placed our order, he immediately grilled them for us on the spot.
Kagiya Mochi Shop (from the Iga Portal Site)
https://www.igaportal.co.jp/store/18693
If you have some extra time and plan to stay in Iga, I recommend “Ichinoyu.” It’s a public bathhouse with dazzling neon lights, the only one left in the town of Iga Ueno. The building itself is impressive, and the atmosphere is fantastic.
Even if you forget shampoo, conditioner, or towels, you can purchase them on-site.
Ichinoyu
https://yutonamisha.com/sento/ichinoyu/
How was it? This time, I cycled the “Iga Choi” course, and as you move just a little further from the town of Iga, the peaceful rural landscapes unfold. If you’re traveling from Osaka or Kyoto to Ise, taking a small detour to Iga will let you experience the charm of a hidden countryside in Japan, offering a taste of an ancient capital.
Text_Onatama Negitoro
References
https://igaichi.com/
https://www.bunka.pref.mie.lg.jp/kaidou/walking/pdf/iga_all.pdf
🚲Articles by Ontama Negitoro
The Bike Travel Professional’s Guide Series
● Domestic Japan Edition 01
● Domestic Japan Edition 02
Gravel Enthusiasts Ride Ancient Routes
● Kii Mountain Range, Kumano Kodo, Off-Road
● Kumano Sanzan Pilgrimage, Exquisite Tuna, Cycle Train
Riding the 1000km Around Shikoku
● An Ultra-Distance Journey by a Gravel Enthusiast
Why Travel to Cape Soya by Bicycle?
● Welcoming the New Year at Japan’s Northernmost Point
Watch Out for Makibishi (Caltrops) !
● A Short Cycling Trip to the Ninja Village
To Taste Mackerel at Wakasa Bay!
A Parent-Child Ride Along the Saba(Mackerel) Kaido
Profile
Ontama Negitoro
Hailing from Sakai City, Osaka Prefecture, Onsen Tamago Negitoro is a company employee, writer, and the administrator of the blog “Bicycle Travel Research Society.” They have been involved in bike camping tours from a young age, having traversed almost all of Japan’s prefectures. During their university years, they were part of a bicycle club and visited over 10 countries solo by bicycle. With extensive experience in bike travel, they undertook an extreme bike camping tour across Hokkaido during the harsh winter of 2023. Recently, they have focused on long-distance rides, earning the SR title in a brevet in 2023 and completing a 1900km brevet during the 2024 Golden Week. They aim to complete PBP and LEL in the future and are also planning to actively pursue overseas bike camping tours.
Post Date：2025.04.10
