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While Japan has been enduring days of heat that feel hotter than midsummer, far to the west on the European continent, France too is under an intense heatwave. And just recently, the grand festival no cycling lover can ignore — the Tour de France — had been in full swing there. Watching the riders circle the country under the blazing summer sun, who wouldn’t feel the urge to ride in France themselves?
However, the vast farmlands blooming with sunflowers are scorching, and the legendary Mont Ventoux is known as “The Mountain of Death.” For beginners, such rides may seem a bit too demanding. Yet, there’s no need to give up so soon — France is full of cycling routes made for leisurely rides.
Among them, the Rhône River region and southern France, both traversed by the Tour every year, hold a special charm for cyclists. It’s a land that once fascinated Van Gogh himself, and it’s also the perfect place for an easy, relaxing cycling trip.
The most recommended route is the public cycling path ViaRhona.
“ViaRhona” follows the Rhône River, flowing from the Alps down to southern France — a proud creation of the cycling-friendly nation of France. “Via” means route or way, and “Rhona” refers to the Rhône River.
Stretching for a total of 815 km, it resembles Japan’s riverside cycling paths, with a flat and approachable design that makes it ideal for beginner touring cyclists. From near the Swiss border at Geneva in the north to the Mediterranean coast in the south, it runs the full length of France. This time, I rode the southern section — from Vienne, an ancient Roman city south of Lyon, to Avignon, the medieval walled city of the Popes — a journey of about 350 km over three days.
Text&Photo_Eigo Shimojo
* For a cycling story on Mont Ventoux by Kazuyuki Yamaguchi, visit:
https://globalride.jp/en/https-globalride-jp-event-tdf2025_02_en/
Day_1 From Vienne to Tain-l’Hermitage — From an Ancient City to the Vineyards
Day_2 From Tournon-sur-Rhône to Viviers — Riding Through the Rhône’s Islands and Spending a Night in a Monastery
Day_3 From Viviers to Avignon — Tracing the History of Medieval Christianity
Vienne, located south of Lyon, is an ancient city that once flourished as a strategic stronghold of the Roman Empire. Our journey begins here. Despite its small size, the town is filled with Roman ruins and temples, offering plenty to see. After a fulfilling prologue ride through the old streets, we finally join the main ViaRhona route.
The recently built riverside cycling path is free from traffic lights and obstacles, with well-maintained surfaces that make it easy to ride. With little elevation change, one can enjoy the ever-shifting French landscape along the flow of the Rhône, covering distance almost without noticing it.
Heading south from Vienne, steep hills rise along the riverbanks, covered in beautiful vineyards. The Rhône-Alpes region is widely known for its fine wines, and this area in particular produces some of the highest-quality vintages. I visit E. Guigal, a historic winery in the Côte-Rôtie appellation, and stop by its museum to learn about the region’s winemaking history. It makes me all the more eager for the after-ride indulgence to come. There’s even a mountain bike tour that lets you ride through the vineyards!
As I continue along the Rhône, the orange-tiled roofs, church spires, fortresses, and medieval castles pass by one after another. The scenery on both sides of the river constantly changes. The Drôme Department on the east bank and the Ardèche Department on the west each have distinct cultures and landscapes.
The ViaRhona is cleverly designed to cross back and forth between both banks, allowing riders to see, taste, and feel the local character of each side. Simply following the river naturally leads to a rich travel experience — the route design itself is brilliant. Spotting a stretch of inviting riverside gravel, I can’t resist exploring it, or pausing to look for beavers native to the area. ViaRhona reminds me of the true joy of bicycle travel — feeling the wind, the earth, and the rhythm of one’s own pedaling.
As the day ends, I arrive at Tain-l’Hermitage, a small commune beloved by wine connoisseurs around the world. The long-awaited after-ride is all about wine. I stroll through the vineyards of the prestigious M. Chapoutier estate and attend a heartfelt wine class at their academy. With the day’s scenery of the Rhône still in my mind, I savor the taste of the land through its exquisite wines.
The second day begins with the morning sun reflecting off the surface of the Rhône, filling me with anticipation for the ride ahead. The cool breeze from the river awakens my body. As the Rhône widens through its middle reaches, the current becomes gentler. The route runs across a vast natural island in the middle of the river — a luxurious path that feels completely secluded from the outside world.
Pedaling smoothly, I cover distance quickly and soon reach the city of Valence, often called “the gateway to southern France.” This year, it was also the finish location for the 17th stage of the Tour de France.
Along the way, a small settlement catches my eye — orange-roofed houses clustered along the hillside. It’s Beauchastel, a tiny commune not even listed in most guidebooks, yet designated as a protected historical area. Its compact yet powerful beauty reflects France’s deep commitment to preserving historic landscapes, a tradition that cyclists and travelers alike benefit from.
For lunch, I stop at a local restaurant bustling with townsfolk called Bon Appétit — the French equivalent of a homestyle eatery. The atmosphere is warm and casual. Elderly women joyfully chat while devouring hearty plates of meat and overflowing French fries, each with a glass of wine in hand. Their scene captures the essence of France — food, life, and travel itself. Truly, C’est la vie!
As the sun dips low in the west, I cross a swaying suspension bridge with a breathtaking view of the Rochemaure Castle perched on a cliff. Soon after, I arrive in Viviers, a historic Christian commune that once held a bishop’s seat. My lodging for the night is a former seminary transformed into a modern hotel. The quiet corridors still carry a sense of sacred solemnity, calming the spirit after a day of cycling and wine.
The final day begins with soft morning light filtering into my room — once a monk’s chamber — awakening me gently. After packing my gear, I roll through the historic district of Viviers, where narrow stone alleys and ancient cathedrals still speak of centuries of Christian devotion. The quiet, maze-like streets are deserted and dreamlike in the early dawn.
As I rejoin the ViaRhona for the third day, the hills that had loomed close to the river over the past two days recede into the distance, giving way to open plains of southern France. The sky widens, and I begin to sense the sea drawing near. Far on the horizon, old castles still crown the distant hills.
It was here, in the middle reaches of the Rhône, that the Carthaginian general Hannibal famously led his war elephants across the river during his invasion of Rome. For over two millennia, the Rhône has been a vital strategic artery, and the many ruins scattered along its banks tell its long and storied history.
The river also holds deep ties to Christian history — most powerfully embodied in my final destination, Avignon.
Approaching the city along the ViaRhona, I am struck by the sight of a massive walled fortress rising from the riverbank, as though floating above the Rhône itself. The soaring spires of the Palace of the Popes reach toward the sky. In the 14th century, this was the stage for one of Christianity’s most extraordinary episodes — when the Papal See moved from Italy to France, making Avignon the only city outside Rome ever to host the papacy. Supported by both religious faith and the thriving trade of southern France along the Rhône, Avignon flourished and declined in turn, its fate shaped by history’s ebb and flow. Today, it remains one of France’s most beloved destinations.
Cyclists can spend a day leisurely exploring the city’s stone-paved streets or take a short ride through the surrounding communes. Ambitious riders might even use Avignon as a base to challenge the infamous “Mountain of Death,” Mont Ventoux, just 40 km away.
Although I end my journey here, the ViaRhona continues beyond Avignon toward the Mediterranean. Downstream, the Rhône splits into two branches, each forming its own final stretch of the route. One follows the eastern course through Arles, the village Van Gogh adored, before finishing at the port town of Port-Saint-Louis. The other heads west, passing Montpellier and ending at the beautiful seaside town of Sète.
According to the specialists at Fellow Cycle, the true ViaRhona experience is to ride all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.
Having ridden the route myself, I am convinced — it’s one of the finest cycling routes abroad, perfect for both beginners and seasoned riders alike.
If you’re planning an overseas cycling adventure, make it ViaRhona!
🚴♂️ViaRhona Information
A well-developed cycling route stretching 815 km from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean beaches of southern France.
Still under construction in parts, this scenic route leads cyclists from the panoramic views of the Alps to the beaches of the Camargue, passing through the Côtes du Rhône and Provence regions — lands rich in over two thousand years of history and heritage. Along the way, riders are guided through iconic vineyard landscapes, hilltop villages, lavender and olive fields, and the heart of France’s gastronomic treasures.
https://en.viarhona.com/https://en.viarhona.com/
Profile
Eigo Shimojo
Born in Nagano Prefecture in 1974
Belongs to IPU Japan Photographers Union
He became independent in 2000 as a freelancer and established Greenhouse Studio, which handles a wide range of photography and video production.
His life’s work is pursuing underground HIPHOP and bicycle culture around the world.
Post Date:2025.10.15