Pedaling Through Hokusai’s Eyes:
A Journey Across the Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji #2
A Journey Across the Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji #2
All Roads Lead to the Local Bike Shop
Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture
In this series, the Global Ride editorial team—connecting fun rides around the world—visits the local bike shops where cyclists gather.
With an “all roads lead to the local bike shop” mindset, this time we travel to Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture, approximately 230 kilometers northwest of Nihonbashi, Tokyo. Matsumoto is a historic castle town neighboring Azumino, home to the popular Azumino Century Ride, a cycling event renowned for its scenic routes through lush rice paddies and beneath the peaks of the Japanese Alps.
* The Azumino Century Ride will be featured in a separate article.
Text_Mayumi Kamura
Table of Contents
1. A Castle Town on the Plains
2. CLAMP Matsumoto Kura Store — Bringing Together Tradition and Innovation
3. BIKE RANCH — A Legendary Bike Shop in Matsumoto
1. A Castle Town on the Plains
Built in the 1590s, Matsumoto Castle is home to one of Japan’s oldest surviving five-tier, six-story castle keeps. The streets surrounding the castle on all sides are dotted with traditional storehouses and merchant buildings, attracting visitors from Japan and abroad who come to experience the culture and atmosphere of the Edo period.
Another distinctive feature of Matsumoto Castle is that, unlike many Japanese castles, it was built on flat land rather than atop a mountain or hill. And for cyclists, that means one thing: no steep climbs. The largely level terrain makes it easy to pedal around town, whether you’re sightseeing or simply exploring at a leisurely pace.
Around Matsumoto Station, renovated kura storehouses have found new life as cafés, galleries, and small shops, creating an atmosphere that feels equally inviting on foot or by bicycle. Even without a fixed destination, simply wandering through the streets is enough to experience the unique charm of the city.
2. CLAMP Matsumoto Kura Store — Bringing Together Tradition and Innovation
Blending seamlessly into Matsumoto’s historic streetscape is CLAMP Matsumoto Kura Store, a bike shop that feels right at home among the city’s traditional architecture.
Located within Izumimachi Gokura, a commercial complex created from renovated kura storehouses just a short distance from Matsumoto Castle, CLAMP Matsumoto Kura Store is a shop that promotes a lifestyle centered around cycling. The business was founded in Ina City in 2012, while the Matsumoto Kura location opened in 2021.
Carrying everything from road bikes and gravel bikes to mountain bikes and kids’ bikes, the shop also offers repairs and custom builds. It firmly fulfills the role of a neighborhood bike shop, supporting cyclists throughout the local community.
What stood out most was its close connection with younger generations. Students from the Sports Bicycle Department at a local vocational school work as staff members, and the shop regularly attracts students and riders in their twenties, giving the space a youthful and welcoming energy.
Given the region’s terrain and riding culture, many customers are into gravel riding and mountain biking, and the shop is filled with gear that naturally makes you want to explore the trails and backroads of Shinshu for yourself.
The charm of this shop lies in how it bridges the atmosphere of a historic kura storehouse with modern cycling culture. Tradition and innovation come together here, united by a shared love of bicycles.
3. BIKE RANCH — A Legendary Bike Shop in Matsumoto
The next stop was BIKE RANCH. Located near Alps Park in Matsumoto and overlooking the Narai River, the shop stands out with its distinctive European-style architecture.
Inside the shop, a man who appeared to be a touring cyclist from overseas was waiting for his bike to be repaired. He was wearing a Mondrian-inspired jersey from the legendary French professional cycling team La Vie Claire. His weathered, road-tested presence made it clear that he had covered many miles—and served as a reminder that Nagano continues to attract cyclists from both Japan and abroad.
The owner of the shop is Raita Suzuki, the founder of the Azumino Century Ride. A pioneering figure in Japan’s mountain biking scene, Suzuki’s influence can be felt throughout the store, where memorabilia and displays related to cycling races and events from Japan and around the world line the walls.
Photo by Eigo Shimojo
Deeply rooted in the local community, yet always looking outward to the wider world—that spirit can be felt throughout the shop.
These two renowned bike shops in Matsumoto may have very different personalities, but they share something essential: a deep understanding of the castle-town culture unique to this region, the riding environment shaped by its celebrated mountains, and, above all, the people who come here to ride.
If you’re planning to cycle in Matsumoto, start with a visit to a local bike shop. The character of the town—and the roads worth riding—will reveal themselves from there.
Matsumoto Bonus Round
Perhaps all roads lead not only to local bike shops, but also to coffee and soba.
With that thought in mind, I spent some time exploring the city before and after my rides.
One thing that immediately stood out was the sheer number of cafés in Matsumoto, where traditional and contemporary styles coexist beautifully. The city also has an impressive selection of cafés serving breakfast, making it an ideal destination for a leisurely coffee-and-soba ride (or pottering, as the British would say).
Here are a few Global Ride–recommended spots for a café-and-soba cycling excursion. Better yet, there always seemed to be bicycles parked out front—usually a reassuring sign that cyclists are welcome.
Coffee Sabo Kamenoya. The miniature indoor garden visible from the seating area evokes the charm of a disappearing era of Showa-period coffee houses. The crisp, perfectly toasted bread is sourced directly from a local bakery, while the coffee comes from ALPs, a Matsumoto-based coffee roaster. Combined with the warm and welcoming service from the staff, it’s the kind of place where you find yourself lingering far longer than planned. A true local gem—at least by my own unofficial standards.
Meotozutsumi Juwari Sobamori. A soba restaurant with the kind of atmosphere that feels as though it has stepped straight out of a manga by Yoshiharu Tsuge. The walls are covered with autographs from rakugo performers, and somehow it all makes perfect sense—soba and rakugo seem like a natural pairing.
The specialty here is juwari soba, noodles made from 100% buckwheat flour. The mountain vegetable tempura is delightfully crisp, while the horse sashimi is so tender it practically melts in your mouth. A memorable stop for anyone looking to experience the flavors and character of Matsumoto.
Alps Coffee Lab. I stopped in after learning that it was a sister café to Coffee Sabo Kamenoya, the outstanding breakfast spot I had visited earlier that morning. Guided by a barista with a gift for storytelling, I ended up ordering the miso latte pictured in the foreground on the left.
Remarkably, it genuinely tasted of miso while remaining unmistakably coffee at its core, creating a rich and satisfying blend of Japanese and Western flavors unlike anything I had tried before. Delicious. Even the graphics on the water cups were thoughtfully designed.
What struck me throughout Matsumoto was the people. At every café and shop, the staff were kind, attentive, and effortlessly genuine. That alone made for a memorable stay.
As I boarded the Azusa train home, I found myself reluctant to leave. Matsumoto is a castle town renowned not only for its cycling and mountain scenery, but also for its traditions of folk craft, classical music, and the arts. The city’s unique culture and warm hospitality lingered long after the ride had ended.
Profile
Mayumi Kamura
I’m a Global Ride editor. My expertise lies in visual expressions like design, art, fashion, and more. The COVID-19 pandemic prompted me to focus on my physical and mental health. I started playing tennis and resumed taking contemporary dance lessons. Considering that bicycle-related accessories often boast high design quality, I have a feeling I might become a fan during this experience.
Post Date：2026.06.18
