#03 Castles and Onsens and craft beer, Oh my!
Bicycle ride through Ehime culture that continues from Shimanami Kaido
In mid-November, a group of international cyclists arrived at Matsuyama Airport, each carrying a bike travel bag. Invited by Ehime Prefecture to participate in a week-long cycling monitor tour aimed at promoting international cycle tourism, the group consisted of professional-level cyclists, including representatives from bicycle-focused travel agencies and media from North America and Australia.
Over the course of seven days, we rode together around Ehime, documenting the experience in detail. This three-part series will provide a comprehensive account of the action-packed journey. What exactly does an international cycling monitor tour, a rarity in Japan, entail? Stay tuned to find out!
Text & Photo _ Eigo Shimojyo
Originally designed for international media, this tour also included Japanese cyclist and journalist Eigo Shimojo, who accompanied the group for the entire itinerary. Here begins his account of the Ehime Rediscovery Ride. If you’re considering a cycling trip to Ehime (Shikoku) next year, let this serve as your guide!
1. Seven Days Around Ehime
2. Exploring Imabari and the Shimanami Kaido
3. Oshima Kirosan (Imabari City)
4. Ohmishima (Imabari City)
5. Ohyamazumi Jinjya (Imabari City)
The tour spanned seven days, starting in Imabari, the gateway to the Shimanami Kaido, and traversing meticulously selected routes daily before concluding in Matsuyama. This clockwise loop around Ehime Prefecture included not only the iconic Shimanami Kaido cycling experience but also pilgrimages along the Henro trail, a major climb to the sacred Ishizuchi Mountain (Shikoku’s highest peak), and even travel via the local Yosan Line railway.
Covering routes ranging from 50 to 120 km each day, this press tour offered a packed schedule that stands out for its length and intensity, especially considering its domestic tourism context. Such an extensive seven-day itinerary is unprecedented for a tourism-oriented press tour in Japan, though it may be more common for overseas tours. In the context of inbound tourism trends, this ambitious initiative is a testament to Ehime Prefecture’s deep commitment to promoting cycle tourism. As a Japanese cyclist, I hold the utmost respect for this effort.
Japan’s allure lies in its blend of the familiar and the unexplored, and guided cycling tours rooted in local culture are always the best way to rediscover its charm. Words can only say so much—let’s ride and experience it firsthand!
The journey began with a warm-up ride around Imabari (60 km) on the first day, followed by a loop along the Shimanami Kaido (120 km) on the second day. My biggest concern was the weather, but despite the overcast skies at the start of the tour, there was no rain or strong wind, making for a smooth and pleasant beginning. Even without blue skies, the ancient temples nestled along the pilgrimage trails appeared all the more solemn under the shadowy forests, and the islands faintly emerging under the soft, milky atmosphere added a uniquely Japanese touch of nostalgia. The varied colors, shapes, and structures of the successive strait bridges drew audible admiration from the participants. It was a relief to see that the muted, cloudy-day mood of the Seto Inland Sea had charmed our international guests.
Incidentally, the Shimanami Kaido is often thought to be a flat route, but accessing the bridges connecting the islands involves modest hill climbs, providing just the right amount of stimulation for the legs. Furthermore, the network of routes within each island offers great variety, catering to cyclists of all levels depending on the chosen path. This versatility is one of the Shimanami Kaido’s greatest attractions, offering countless ways to enjoy the journey.
For this tour, likely as part of Ehime Prefecture’s “omotenashi” spirit toward our capable overseas cyclists, the route included plenty of solid climbs, providing a rewarding and challenging experience that was met with much enthusiasm from the group.
The first major challenge of the journey came with a climb up Kirosan on Oshima Island—a short but punchy ascent. As the elevation and heart rate steadily increased, glimpses of the Seto Inland Sea emerged through the trees, eventually revealing the breathtaking views at the summit. At the finish, a spectacular panorama awaited: a sweeping view of the Shimanami Kaido bridges and islands below. Despite their diverse backgrounds and nationalities, the participants bonded instantly, sharing smiles and words of encouragement as they reached the summit together. Cycling truly knows no borders. Conversations flowed as we enjoyed the stunning scenery along with well-deserved coffee and sweets.As an aside, perched atop Kirosan is the beautifully integrated Oshima Kirosan Observatory, a structure harmoniously blending into its natural surroundings. Designed in the early career of renowned architect Kengo Kuma, its presence sparked recognition and appreciation among a few participants familiar with his work. With these shared discoveries and cultural tidbits, the tour began on a high note, brimming with camaraderie and smiles.
The Oshima Kirosan Observatory
https://www.city.imabari.ehime.jp/kanko/spot/?a=182
Having climbed a mountain, the group grew closer and their teamwork strengthened. They tackled the up-and-down routes with ease, cruising through them in a smooth train. The goal was Ohmishima, the largest island in the Seto Inland Sea, also known as the “Island of the Gods.” From the colorful citrus hills, they descended to the coastline, where small, pleasant rolling hills offered scenic views of tiny capes. Passing through fishing villages full of charm, the team members were all smiling and happily burning calories at a comfortable pace. Around lunchtime, they easily spun along the calm shoreline and slid into a recommended lunch spot.
“Shimanami Kaido WAKKA” is gaining attention as a versatile accommodation facility for various types of tourists, located in the middle of the Shimanami Kaido. Based in a nature-rich location, it offers a wide range of activities and modern lodging experiences, with a particular focus on services for cyclists. From rentals to unique guided tours, they provide comprehensive support. It is an ideal stopover for cyclists, and on this day, the group enjoyed the best view of the Shimanami from the terrace of the attached café restaurant, along with a lunch made from high-quality local ingredients.
* Shimanami Kaido WAKKA
https://wakka.site/en/
After recharging their energy with the modern Seto Inland Sea vibe at WAKKA, the group headed to one of the most representative shrines of the Seto Inland Sea, Ohyamazumi Shrine. This ancient shrine, one of the oldest in Shinto, has been a place of worship for centuries and is known for attracting the devotion of powerful warlords, including the Murakami Navy. For some participants, this was their first serious visit to a shrine, and they appeared genuinely fascinated. After a brief lecture from the guide on the proper etiquette for visiting Shinto shrines, they walked solemnly through the grand torii gate. The group, in their cycling shoes, moved along the spacious, long approach to the shrine, passing through a giant camphor tree estimated to be over 2,600 years old, before reaching the main hall. They awkwardly followed the steps of two bows, two claps, and one bow, all while observing the shrine with great curiosity. Damian, an Australian, asked about the differences between Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, as well as between Shinto and Buddhism, and I struggled to answer, feeling just as awkward. Cooper, a long-haired cycling influencer from Mexico, seemed to sense something spiritual and wandered deep into the shrine grounds, reluctant to return. Throughout history, the magnetic energy of religious sites has often surpassed that of tourist attractions and has provided invaluable insights into cross-cultural understanding. The multinational cycling experience only heightened this feeling.
*Ohyamazumi Jinjya
https://oomishimagu.jp/about/
With the weather slowly improving, the day ended with a soft sunset. On the Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge, returning to Imabari, they couldn’t help but stop and take photos of the pink-hued sunset over the sea. Having taken many photos from the beginning of the tour, I wonder what kind of emotions they are feeling.
Even after just the first two days, riding through the Imabari area and the three islands of the Shimanami Kaido—Hakatajima, Oshima, and Ohmishima —has already left me, a Japanese rider, feeling completely fulfilled. But tomorrow, we’ll be heading to the mysterious UFO Line, where the sacred Mount Ishizuchi awaits the visitors’ challenge. The tour is only halfway through, yet the “richness” of Ehime’s offerings has already left an impression. With the forecast calling for clear skies tomorrow, the group’s good mood is only getting better as they enjoy Japanese food and local sake over an after-ride dinner. I wonder how things will unfold from here…
To be continued
Profile
Eigo Shimojo
Born in Nagano Prefecture in 1974
Belongs to IPU Japan Photographers Union
He became independent in 2000 as a freelancer and established Greenhouse Studio, which handles a wide range of photography and video production.
His life’s work is pursuing underground HIPHOP and bicycle culture around the world.
Post Date:2024.12.26