This time, we’ll introduce the episode of Vincent MARIE, who transitioned from being a natural wine geek to a vigneron (producer).
The word “geek” often carries a negative connotation, doesn’t it? With a tough, imposing figure, Impressive tattoos on his arms, and a taste in music ranging from punk rock to fusion metal… Vincent MARIE is a geeky guy in a way that defies the typical image associated with the term.
The name of his winery is “No Control.”
Vincent MARIE（No Control）
Vincent, making wine in the Auvergne region of France (think of it as being known for Volvic water), is known for placing “No Control” stickers on his bottles. Whenever you ask about various famous producers in Europe, you’ll almost always find a “No Control” seal at their wineries.
Vincent, originally not a winemaker, founded a natural wine salon in 2004. Through this salon, which he continued until 2008, he seized the opportunity to meet many natural wine producers directly. At the time, he was a salesperson for sporting goods, but gradually became interested in winemaking… In 2008, he was transferred to Alsace headquarters, where he handled web marketing for sporting goods. During this time, he spent most of his free time visiting producers to deepen his knowledge of winemaking. Finally, in 2012, he made the decision to become a winemaker, resigning from the company he had worked for eight years.
My first encounter, with such an unconventional background, happened in 2016 when visiting Auvergne. By chance, We crossed paths at a restaurant while having dinner. Although I had been drinking his wine, it was my first meeting. My encounter immediately turned into a blind tasting competition, guessing the contents of the wine without knowing. Whenever someone made a guess, they were bombarded with questions like “Why do you think so?” … Although the speaker couldn’t guess, my friend who was with them correctly identified the wine, prompting exclamations like “You’re amazing!” and “Tell us your secrets!”
Encounter with winemakers at a bistro in Auvergne. / From the right Francois Dhumes 、Patrick Bouju（P Domaine La Boheme）、Vincent MARIE（No Control）
He really loves natural wine, you can tell by how much he admires the natural winemakers. He was a man with a very strong first impression.
Tough-looking yet charismatic… He also had a solid attitude of learning, not hesitating to seek advice from his seniors when in trouble. This attitude probably earns him affection from the senior vignerons.
He was also scouted as a professional cyclist in his youth due to his athletic abilities. During high school, he participated in track racing as a candidate for the French national team, and as a representative of Normandy-Brittany, he also took part in road races. However, instead of pursuing a career in cycling, he chose academia and has led a well-rounded life, earning a master’s degree in sports management.
While it might be tempting to bike around his vineyards, it seems wise to refrain from joining him for a ride!
A night in Auvergne… From Tokyo, Shito-san (Libertin/Shibuya), Miyauchi-san (Unjour/Meguro), and Hayashi-san (La Pioch/Oyster Shell Town) embarked on a winery tour together for the evening.
Today’s Natural Wine
No Control Babinou 2022 This wine displays a light and bright purple color. It has aromas of cranberry, acerola cherry, thyme, and Earl Grey. The wine is lively and charming, with a burst of cute acidity reminiscent of acerola cherry, bright and fresh fruitiness, mineral undertones, and delicate tannins that shape the lingering finish. While “No Control” may suggest some instability initially, this wine was in good condition from release. Does it offer an unexpected flavor for a “No Control” wine?
【Net】 750ml 【vineyard】 France＞Auvergne 【variety】 20% Trousseau, Gamay de Beaujolais, Muscat, Chenin, and Chardonnay each 【type】 Rouge
– The wine name “Babinou” is an original term created by Vincent to match the flavor profile. – No added SO2, non-filtered.
Profile
Takuya Itagaki Owner of the wine shop “LoveSong by BATONS” located in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture. Introduced to natural wine 20 years ago, fascinated by it, and transitioned from being a chef to a cellar worker. Opened several bistros in Sendai since 2002, pioneering the handling of natural wine in the Tohoku region. In 2015, opened the specialized natural wine shop “BATONS.” In 2023, shifted focus to a wholesale specialty store and opened the retail wine shop “LoveSong by BATONS,” combined with an apparel store. Following the Great East Japan Earthquake, collaborated with Takeda Winery in Yamagata to produce the original wine “Vin de MICHINOKU” by blending grapes from six prefectures in the Tohoku region, as part of a project he initiated. Representative of MaCuisine Co., Ltd. / Owner of the wholesale wine shop “BATONS” / Owner of “Mangetsu Wine Bar Sendai.”
