Tour de Natural Wine
#03 No Control “Babinou 2022”
Seeking wine with no control

This time, we’ll introduce the episode of Vincent MARIE, who transitioned from being a natural wine geek to a vigneron (producer).

The word “geek” often carries a negative connotation, doesn’t it?
With a tough, imposing figure,
Impressive tattoos on his arms, and a taste in music ranging from punk rock to fusion metal…
Vincent MARIE is a geeky guy in a way that defies the typical image associated with the term.

The name of his winery is “No Control.”

Vincent MARIE(No Control)

Vincent, making wine in the Auvergne region of France (think of it as being known for Volvic water), is known for placing “No Control” stickers on his bottles. Whenever you ask about various famous producers in Europe, you’ll almost always find a “No Control” seal at their wineries.

Vincent, originally not a winemaker, founded a natural wine salon in 2004. Through this salon, which he continued until 2008, he seized the opportunity to meet many natural wine producers directly. At the time, he was a salesperson for sporting goods, but gradually became interested in winemaking…
In 2008, he was transferred to Alsace headquarters, where he handled web marketing for sporting goods. During this time, he spent most of his free time visiting producers to deepen his knowledge of winemaking. Finally, in 2012, he made the decision to become a winemaker, resigning from the company he had worked for eight years.

My first encounter, with such an unconventional background, happened in 2016 when visiting Auvergne. By chance, We crossed paths at a restaurant while having dinner. Although I had been drinking his wine, it was my first meeting. My encounter immediately turned into a blind tasting competition, guessing the contents of the wine without knowing. Whenever someone made a guess, they were bombarded with questions like “Why do you think so?” …
Although the speaker couldn’t guess, my friend who was with them correctly identified the wine, prompting exclamations like “You’re amazing!” and “Tell us your secrets!”

Encounter with winemakers at a bistro in Auvergne. / From the right Francois Dhumes 、Patrick Bouju(P Domaine La Boheme)、Vincent MARIE(No Control)

He really loves natural wine, you can tell by how much he admires the natural winemakers. He was a man with a very strong first impression.

Tough-looking yet charismatic…
He also had a solid attitude of learning, not hesitating to seek advice from his seniors when in trouble.
This attitude probably earns him affection from the senior vignerons.

He was also scouted as a professional cyclist in his youth due to his athletic abilities. During high school, he participated in track racing as a candidate for the French national team, and as a representative of Normandy-Brittany, he also took part in road races. However, instead of pursuing a career in cycling, he chose academia and has led a well-rounded life, earning a master’s degree in sports management.

While it might be tempting to bike around his vineyards, it seems wise to refrain from joining him for a ride!

A night in Auvergne… From Tokyo, Shito-san (Libertin/Shibuya), Miyauchi-san (Unjour/Meguro), and Hayashi-san (La Pioch/Oyster Shell Town) embarked on a winery tour together for the evening.

Today’s Natural Wine

No Control Babinou 2022
This wine displays a light and bright purple color. It has aromas of cranberry, acerola cherry, thyme, and Earl Grey. The wine is lively and charming, with a burst of cute acidity reminiscent of acerola cherry, bright and fresh fruitiness, mineral undertones, and delicate tannins that shape the lingering finish. While “No Control” may suggest some instability initially, this wine was in good condition from release. Does it offer an unexpected flavor for a “No Control” wine?

【Net】  750ml
【vineyard】  France>Auvergne
【variety】  20% Trousseau, Gamay de Beaujolais, Muscat, Chenin, and Chardonnay each
【type】  Rouge

– The wine name “Babinou” is an original term created by Vincent to match the flavor profile.
– No added SO2, non-filtered.

Profile

Takuya Itagaki
Owner of the wine shop “LoveSong by BATONS” located in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture. Introduced to natural wine 20 years ago, fascinated by it, and transitioned from being a chef to a cellar worker. Opened several bistros in Sendai since 2002, pioneering the handling of natural wine in the Tohoku region. In 2015, opened the specialized natural wine shop “BATONS.” In 2023, shifted focus to a wholesale specialty store and opened the retail wine shop “LoveSong by BATONS,” combined with an apparel store. Following the Great East Japan Earthquake, collaborated with Takeda Winery in Yamagata to produce the original wine “Vin de MICHINOKU” by blending grapes from six prefectures in the Tohoku region, as part of a project he initiated. Representative of MaCuisine Co., Ltd. / Owner of the wholesale wine shop “BATONS” / Owner of “Mangetsu Wine Bar Sendai.”

TRIP&TRAVEL CULTURE
Tokyo old town bicycle stroll #02
Searching for the remnants of Edo’s oldtown legend, Hokusai. (Part 3)

In the final installment of the Hokusai bicycle stroll, I trace the peak of Hokusai’s life and career. From manga and art performances to the “Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji” and fascination with Mount Fuji, I’ll explore the areas from Honjo to Asakusa, searching for traces of his legacy. Table of Contents  1. The Day “Manga” Was Born (50s) 2. The Eccentric Man (60s) 3. The Great Wave (70s) 4. The Man Who Traveled with picture (80s) 5. The buried Giant (90s) The manga artist Akira Toriyama, known for creating “Dragon Ball” and “Dr. Slump,” passed away in 2024, and his death was mourned worldwide. “Manga&#82 […]

#Hokusai
CULTURE
CYCLE CINEMA #02
“Project A”
Immerse in an exhilarating bike chase.

In the early 1990s, China had a completely different landscape compared to today. During the morning and evening rush hours, one could witness the famous “bicycle rush hour” that was synonymous with China at the time. Many people used bicycles for commuting, creating a breathtaking sight of thousands of people riding the same roads. Moreover, since most bicycles were of the same model and color, there was a sense of harmony. Brands like “Fenghuang” and “Yongjiu” from Shanghai were quite popular. These bicycles were tough and sturdy, serving as the essential means of transportation to support people’s daily lives.

#Column #Cinema
CULTURE
CYCLE CINEMA #10
“E.T.”
When I thought I could fly in the sky with my bicycle.

Recent SF movies are challenging. Many people seem to have a basic understanding of “special relativity theory” (somehow), so despite advances in science and technology, the idea of “aliens coming to Earth” is theoretically very difficult. Hence, they appear before Earthlings by incorporating multidimensional narratives like in “Interstellar,” suggesting that time from past to future exists simultaneously like in “Arrival,” or overcoming the three-body problem (unsolvable by humans) like in “The Three-Body Problem.” It’s truly intricate. Depicting aliens in contemporary SF movies has become more complex than before. Filmmakers […]

#Cinema #Colunm